My Sri Lanka Journey: Candy Kandy and Dambulla Flava
When i mentioned that i wanted to solo backpack in Sri Lanka, my choice of destination raised many eye brows, from family and friends alike. The first question, "is it safe?", followed by "what is there to see?". Frankly, Sri Lanka garnered my travel spotlight since a year ago but only now had i gather enough courage, after reading many websites/blogs that claimed the Pearl of the Indian Ocean a relatively safe place to travel and lessons learned from my previous journeys. Returning from this journey, i can tell now that while i felt usually safe, there were times when instinct told me of suspicious behaviours. I was approached more than once that i know the formula: it began with a friendly greeting, a short chat of where i came from and an invitation to sites, but i always declined and walked off, losing their interests. I may not know their true intentions; i will never know. Nevertheless, past this seemingly unwanted attention, Sri Lankan are warm and helpful people, of which i, too, experienced more than once.
I drafted my itinerary for an effective six days on the island country, listing and incorporating the places i wanted to see. Although there are places to see, the real reason i chose Sri Lanka, previously known as Ceylon, was because i wanted something exotic, something of a road-less-traveled. Something i will want to live with and share forever. As foreign as i was in the country to the people see of me, this journey comprised of many firsts; the thrill and joy of traveling.
I arrived at Bandaranaike International Airport at night (two and a half hours time difference with KL), with my backpack mounted on, ready for adventure. After immigration clearance, i needed to do two things. I exchanged my money to Sri Lankan Rupee (1 USD approximately 140 LKR) at the banks in the Arrival Hall. Some places do accept USD but it's better to have sufficient LKR in hand. Then, i got a taxi that stopped intermittently to reload his phone and to get directions to Hostel Inn Colombo 7.
I woke up early the next day to catch my Expo Rail train to Kandy at 7am. As it was my first time at the Fort Railway Station, and my first time engaging with the people, my feelings were mixed. I looked for the counter to produce my train ticket from my reservation slip and when i did, i headed to my designated platform, only to be welcomed at the gate by a local clad in a casual, non-uniform outfit. He showed me where to wait although i already knew, and he seemed to talk only to foreigners. I ignored him, stood waiting for my train to arrive and watched as the railway station grew active by the morning. Weirdly, i got into my seat and noticed the same man on the train, talking to the foreigners, but left as the train departed to Kandy. I sighed and started to question my purpose of this journey.
Almost two and a half hours later, i arrived at Kandy Railway Station; breathing in the cool, fresh air, surrounded by hilly greenery. I followed my map to the Hostel Kandy but missed a narrow staircase between shops; so i continued walking until i identified several landmarks. A simple and cheap hostel at a relatively good location, this hostel is manned by an elderly man who was kind. He was happy to receive a review of the place- i suppose with the rising hostel numbers, every review counts.
Not too long after, i strolled along the main road from the hostel to Kandy town, passing by local shops, tourist police and information center, a clock tower, and had my Mixed Fried Rice lunch at Bake House. I realized then that fried rice is a common dish on the menu (some even have 'Nasi Goreng' written). Generally, i wasn't too fond of the food i had so expect less food in this journey.
After a quick scan of items, i was in the compound leading to the Temple of the Tooth or locally known as Sri Dalada Maligawa (1000LKR). This temple, founded in 1595, now houses the Buddha tooth relic and history has it that whoever had the relic then holds power to the kingdom.
After the visit to the Temples, i went to the Dambulla Economic Center. It was a busy, wholesaler as crops came in and redistributed to vendors. I was told that it is busy all day and night.
My Sri Lanka Journey: Candy Kandy and Dambulla Flava
My Sri Lanka Journey: Rewind
My Sri Lanka Journey: Colombo Forte
Colombo-Kandy-Dambulla-Sigiriya-Polonnaruwa-Mount Lavinia-Colombo
I arrived at Bandaranaike International Airport at night (two and a half hours time difference with KL), with my backpack mounted on, ready for adventure. After immigration clearance, i needed to do two things. I exchanged my money to Sri Lankan Rupee (1 USD approximately 140 LKR) at the banks in the Arrival Hall. Some places do accept USD but it's better to have sufficient LKR in hand. Then, i got a taxi that stopped intermittently to reload his phone and to get directions to Hostel Inn Colombo 7.
Tip: Visa may be required for your country so please check. The Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) can be applied online conveniently. My approval response was quick.
Tip: Get the LKR in various denominations. Drivers tend to claim to not have change and you'll end up paying more (or that could be your tip). Highway from Airport to Colombo passes through a toll, which may not be necessary during off-peak times.
I woke up early the next day to catch my Expo Rail train to Kandy at 7am. As it was my first time at the Fort Railway Station, and my first time engaging with the people, my feelings were mixed. I looked for the counter to produce my train ticket from my reservation slip and when i did, i headed to my designated platform, only to be welcomed at the gate by a local clad in a casual, non-uniform outfit. He showed me where to wait although i already knew, and he seemed to talk only to foreigners. I ignored him, stood waiting for my train to arrive and watched as the railway station grew active by the morning. Weirdly, i got into my seat and noticed the same man on the train, talking to the foreigners, but left as the train departed to Kandy. I sighed and started to question my purpose of this journey.
Kandy Railway Station.
Almost two and a half hours later, i arrived at Kandy Railway Station; breathing in the cool, fresh air, surrounded by hilly greenery. I followed my map to the Hostel Kandy but missed a narrow staircase between shops; so i continued walking until i identified several landmarks. A simple and cheap hostel at a relatively good location, this hostel is manned by an elderly man who was kind. He was happy to receive a review of the place- i suppose with the rising hostel numbers, every review counts.
When the train is not on the track, people use it as a pathway.
Not too long after, i strolled along the main road from the hostel to Kandy town, passing by local shops, tourist police and information center, a clock tower, and had my Mixed Fried Rice lunch at Bake House. I realized then that fried rice is a common dish on the menu (some even have 'Nasi Goreng' written). Generally, i wasn't too fond of the food i had so expect less food in this journey.
One of the streets in Kandy town.
After a quick scan of items, i was in the compound leading to the Temple of the Tooth or locally known as Sri Dalada Maligawa (1000LKR). This temple, founded in 1595, now houses the Buddha tooth relic and history has it that whoever had the relic then holds power to the kingdom.
Tip: Wear appropriately to temples. Long pants and covered sleeves are preferred. No shoes inside the temple so expect to tip at the shoe booth.
In the compound leading to the Temple of the Tooth.
Inside the Temple of the Tooth. Interestingly, there were graphic storyboard-telling of the relic hung on the walls and it was there that i understood more.
Also included in the entrance fee was the Temple Museum located on the upper levels of the building complex. No photography permitted but it is worthy of a visit. At the back of the Temple compound is the World Buddhism Museum (additional 500 LKR). I got to learn about and fascinated by how Buddhism grew and is practiced around the world, and paid close attention to the Malaysian corner. Again, no photography permitted inside. However, this museum is informative so i recommend only if you like visiting museums or into Buddhism. I returned to the Temple compound and saw the golden canopy/Audience Hall, Elephant Museum and briefly walked at the Royal Palace of Kandy.
Kandy Lake.
I exited the Temple compound and strolled along the Kandy Lake; relaxing, in the gentle breeze. I detoured to pass by the prison and market, following and against the current of people, on my way back to the hostel. I made friends with my hostelmate from Canada- another reason why i enjoy backpacking as i get to meet interesting people from all around the world, from all walks of life. After a quick rest, we headed out to the town and walked its streets, him hunting for textile while i window shopped. I didn't want to buy then because i thought Colombo would be cheaper at the markets but i was wrong and i ended up leaving Sri Lanka without any textile.
I wanted to see the Temple of the Tooth at night so we were at the compound again; me standing in front of the Octagon.
At night, the Buddha statue overlooking Kandy was calmly lit. We stopped for dinner at a local shop. Rice and curry was sold out so we settled for Masala Dosai.
The next morning, i got to the overlooking Buddha statue at Bahirawakanda Temple (200 LKR). This sedate statue of Buddha is 88 feet tall and faces the Temple of the Tooth.
Some wall sculpture inside the Temple.
Scenic view of Kandy. Seen here is the Temple of the Tooth, Kandy Lake, prison and market.
I enjoyed Kandy. The town exudes a charm that is both bustling yet relaxing. It is no wonder that Kandy is usually a popular destination even for the locals- religiously or not. The Kandy Esala Perahera is a celebration of the Sacred Tooth Relic usually in July or August (depending on full moon) and although i was not in time for the event, i heard that it is festive.
About two hours drive up, i arrived at Dambulla, a small town, and checked in at Milano Grand New Rest House. Located very close to the bus station, this new rest house was decent enough for a night stay and i was pretty sure i was the only guest- i signed the visitor's book and the last name was weeks back!
Dambulla town.
The Golden Temple of Dambulla, also known as/adjacent to the Dambulla Cave Temple. This Golden Buddha statue sits at the main entrance. I opted to visit the Cave Temple first, which was a climb up into the caves at the side.
Say "hello" to these 'local residents'.
This is the largest and best-preserved cave temple on the island, which spread over five caves comprising of paintings on walls and ceiling, and statues. There is no entrance fee but you can have a guide to explain to you or give donation.
Inside the second and largest cave temple among the five. There is a spring which drips water constantly and said to have healing powers.
I was thoroughly amazed by the colourful paintings on the ceilings and the many Buddha statues of various positions in the caves.
This Temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, inscribed since 1991.
Offering monk statues on the side of the Golden Temple.
The Golden Buddha sees the Sigiriya rock fortress in the distance, my next destination.
After the visit to the Temples, i went to the Dambulla Economic Center. It was a busy, wholesaler as crops came in and redistributed to vendors. I was told that it is busy all day and night.
On my way back to the rest house, i stopped for Thambili, Sinhalese for the King Coconut (50 LKR). And you cannot leave Sri Lanka without having one- i had it three times!
After the refreshing drink, let the seller break open the coconut and peel the flesh. Yum!
It is common to find stands like this and you may have guessed it right- it's a lottery ticket stand. They have the 'scratch and win' but mostly locals buy the printed numbers and wait until night for the prized numbers to be announced every day.
Remember i had my doubts when i got onto that train to Kandy? I was glad it didn't stop me from continuing on because my Sri Lanka journey was shaping up to be what i wanted it to be, what i came for- a journey.
My Sri Lanka Journey: Candy Kandy and Dambulla Flava
My Sri Lanka Journey: Rewind
My Sri Lanka Journey: Colombo Forte
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