My Laos Journey: The Charming Luang Prabang
My recent travel destination continued to raise eyebrow. When i mentioned Laos to my family and friends, popped came the question: why Laos? To simply and quickly reply, i said i wanted to see the Kuang Si Waterfall. This, i was sure, raised more eyebrows.
But truth be told, how much do i know about Laos? Not much, and probably you too. That was my reason i picked Laos; i wanted to experience Laos first-hand. I wanted to learn about the people, the culture, the places, the food. I didn't even know how to say 'hello' in their language then. I know now.
Sabaidee!
Laos, a country surrounded by land borders Cambodia, China, Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, with the endearing Mekong River veining through, was a fulfilling pick. The journey, another solo travel, was humbling as it was rewarding. I didn't have much time to plan but i listed, at least, the things i wanted to see or do. I wanted this travel to be flexible, to adapt as i go, and detach myself from a rigid itinerary. Even so, i got a plane to catch home, but whatever in between was up to me and i was glad with the choices i made. The journey was kind on the wallet too, leaving me with cash to spare on my last day.
As the plane took me into Laos airspace, i was quickly captivated by the undulating mountains when i looked outside the window, a tease to what this adventure would include. I arrived at the cozy Luang Prabang airport early morning and when the steward announced the temperature outside was 22 degree Celsius, my first thought: i didn't bring a jacket! I read that it was dry season and although i didn't have a jacket, weather was cooperative throughout my travel. Malaysians have free 30-day visit visa on arrival. Upon exiting the hall, i exchanged my money to the local currency, Laotian Kip. The rate offered there was as good as in town: on the day of my visit, 1 USD was 8300 kip. Yes, there will be lots of zeroes so make sure you check your money when making any payment.
I took the shared taxi (50k kip per person) next to the money exchange counter from the airport to the Aham Backpackers Hostel. Tucked between shoplots, the staffs were friendly and helpful, especially Cham who displayed Lao hospitality, and good location. It was my stay for three nights. My room was small but decent. I dropped my backpack, pulled out my map and began exploring on foot.
The Luang Prabang town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. Over the days, i realized how the town is steeped in culture despite tourism pinching it. Temples, or Wats, scatter throughout the town, idyllically contrasting the preserved French architectural buildings. It has a main street that, personally, is the happening scene. It is walk-friendly and conveniently accessible on foot or bicycle. The easy-going vibe exuded a charm i could not resist- i saw myself falling in love with the town, as cheesy as it sounds.
I made my way to the Wat Xieng Thong (20k kip per person). Just when i thought i'd seen many temples, i realized the difference here was the colourful glass mosaics that adorned the walls of the structures. A worthy quick stop.
In exposing myself to Lao cuisine, i headed to Cafe Toui for lunch. Unfamiliar, i agreed to the waiter's recommendation.
I continued to visit the Royal Palace Museum (30k kip per person). The palace, built in 1904, was not lavish but the hall was grand. It is strategically located such that official visitors could disembark from the river below the palace and be received there. Outside in a separate building stands the Phra Bang Buddha statue, a link to the name of the town.
Cham told me, "you can't say you have been to Luang Prabang if you've not visited Phousi Hill". I read that it is a popular sunset spot. Indeed, it was as during my visit, the platform was crowded with tourists waiting for sunset. I was one of them. However, i began my hike up about 4.30pm to spend time basking in the surrounding views before joining the crowd. It is a temple on the hill too (20k kip per person). If the sunset is not your choice, visit during other times.
I descended down the hill, almost in time for dinner. As soon as Bouang Restaurant opened, it quickly got packed.
My breakfast the next morning was one of my favourite meals in Laos: Khao Soi at a shop in front of Wat Sen.
There are many ways to get to Kuang Si Waterfall. Hail (or be hailed by) a private tuk-tuk, share waiting tuk-tuks at the roundabout, rent a bike or bicycle, or join a minivan. Considering all factors, i picked the minivan (50k kip per person, plus 20k kip per person for entrance fee). I was highly anticipating this.
I told my friend that i ruined my travel for visiting this in the early part of my travel. Because i don't think i would see anything more beautiful than this! It took me awhile to contain my excitement and disbelief to actually see it before my eyes, as real as it was in the pictures.
There is a bear sanctuary located at the base of this site. I stopped by to be educated on bear status worldwide before leaving.
The Night Market at the main street was another favourite of mine in Laos and one of my favourite among the night markets i've been to. It was clean and calm; had a variety of local products to put your bargaining skill to test and a street food street for gastronomic seekers like me.
Rising above the controversy, the Tak Bat, the alms-giving ceremony, is truly a unique event to witness. Monks lined the streets around temples, receiving rice or sweets from givers. It was sacred to tradition and be respectful. Behave appropriately as reminded on boards. Part of the main street is closed for the ceremony. I recommend to go at 5.30am because by 6am, most of the monks would return to their temples to continue with their day.
I had another noodle soup variation, this time, the Khao Piak at the Xieng Thong Noodle shop, near the entrance of the Wat Xieng Thong.
The food and cafe scene in Luang Prabang was pretty good. A recommended place to chill was the Saffron Coffee as i sat overlooking the Mekong River...
I visited its branch in Phnom Penh; in Luang Prabang, the Khaiphaen Restaurant works the same- a vocational training restaurant for marginalized youth.
The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center (25k kip) was small. However, it provided an overview to the multiple groups in the country.
Nearby my hostel was Wat Visoun, famed for its 'Watermelon' stupa because of its shape and size. It did look different compared to other Wats in town.
My last dinner in Luang Prabang was at Coconut Garden. While the place was lovely, what i had was more than i could stomach. It was peculiar; i could not finish it (and it's rare to hear me say that): Or Lam. I reckoned it was the flavour of pepperwood and bitter leaves.
Just before i pack to leave Luang Prabang the next morning, i visited the Morning Market. It seemed alright until i noticed a lady selling exotic items. Skip picture below if worms, rats or beetles are not your everyday food.
Luang Prabang has definitely captured my heart. And i say this after my Laos journey: if you need to visit Laos, it is Luang Prabang. A friend of mine who intended to stay for 2 nights here ended up extending to 4 nights. There are many things to see or do and i admit, i have not seen or done all, but this was a great introduction. Why Laos? This is one-third of your answer.
My Laos Journey: The Charming Luang Prabang
My Laos Journey: The Gorgeous Vang Vieng
My Laos Journey: The Capital Vientiane
But truth be told, how much do i know about Laos? Not much, and probably you too. That was my reason i picked Laos; i wanted to experience Laos first-hand. I wanted to learn about the people, the culture, the places, the food. I didn't even know how to say 'hello' in their language then. I know now.
Laos, a country surrounded by land borders Cambodia, China, Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, with the endearing Mekong River veining through, was a fulfilling pick. The journey, another solo travel, was humbling as it was rewarding. I didn't have much time to plan but i listed, at least, the things i wanted to see or do. I wanted this travel to be flexible, to adapt as i go, and detach myself from a rigid itinerary. Even so, i got a plane to catch home, but whatever in between was up to me and i was glad with the choices i made. The journey was kind on the wallet too, leaving me with cash to spare on my last day.
I was thinking about the colour to describe the robes the monks wear. Orange? Too bright. Brown? Too dark. Gold? Too shiny. Then i learned: saffron.
As the plane took me into Laos airspace, i was quickly captivated by the undulating mountains when i looked outside the window, a tease to what this adventure would include. I arrived at the cozy Luang Prabang airport early morning and when the steward announced the temperature outside was 22 degree Celsius, my first thought: i didn't bring a jacket! I read that it was dry season and although i didn't have a jacket, weather was cooperative throughout my travel. Malaysians have free 30-day visit visa on arrival. Upon exiting the hall, i exchanged my money to the local currency, Laotian Kip. The rate offered there was as good as in town: on the day of my visit, 1 USD was 8300 kip. Yes, there will be lots of zeroes so make sure you check your money when making any payment.
I took the shared taxi (50k kip per person) next to the money exchange counter from the airport to the Aham Backpackers Hostel. Tucked between shoplots, the staffs were friendly and helpful, especially Cham who displayed Lao hospitality, and good location. It was my stay for three nights. My room was small but decent. I dropped my backpack, pulled out my map and began exploring on foot.
The Luang Prabang town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. Over the days, i realized how the town is steeped in culture despite tourism pinching it. Temples, or Wats, scatter throughout the town, idyllically contrasting the preserved French architectural buildings. It has a main street that, personally, is the happening scene. It is walk-friendly and conveniently accessible on foot or bicycle. The easy-going vibe exuded a charm i could not resist- i saw myself falling in love with the town, as cheesy as it sounds.
A school in town and a kid waiting to go home.
I made my way to the Wat Xieng Thong (20k kip per person). Just when i thought i'd seen many temples, i realized the difference here was the colourful glass mosaics that adorned the walls of the structures. A worthy quick stop.
One of the buildings in its complex.
Intricate design.
Inside the building.
With the main temple.
Inside the temple.
The Tree of Life mosaic at the back of the temple.
People peeping in.
In exposing myself to Lao cuisine, i headed to Cafe Toui for lunch. Unfamiliar, i agreed to the waiter's recommendation.
I had Larb, said to be the unofficial national dish of Laos, and sticky rice, a staple food, with mulberry tea. The Larb was zesty with minced meat, mixed almost salad-like. I thought the sticky rice would equal the glutinous rice in Malaysia, however, the texture was harder. Sticky rice is common here as it is easy to handle while eating and makes you feel fuller. The tea was aromatic.
I continued to visit the Royal Palace Museum (30k kip per person). The palace, built in 1904, was not lavish but the hall was grand. It is strategically located such that official visitors could disembark from the river below the palace and be received there. Outside in a separate building stands the Phra Bang Buddha statue, a link to the name of the town.
It is hard to miss this when in town.
Building housing the Phra Bang.
Cham told me, "you can't say you have been to Luang Prabang if you've not visited Phousi Hill". I read that it is a popular sunset spot. Indeed, it was as during my visit, the platform was crowded with tourists waiting for sunset. I was one of them. However, i began my hike up about 4.30pm to spend time basking in the surrounding views before joining the crowd. It is a temple on the hill too (20k kip per person). If the sunset is not your choice, visit during other times.
On my way to the top, enjoying the view.
Interesting Buddha statues.
View from the top.
Sunset behind the mountains.
Stunning.
Also because i don't know which of the two to post.
I descended down the hill, almost in time for dinner. As soon as Bouang Restaurant opened, it quickly got packed.
Quirky use of metal trays as decor.
Had a crowd favourite: meatballs. It was well flavoured.
The lit bamboo bridge, available during the dry season when the river water level is low.
My breakfast the next morning was one of my favourite meals in Laos: Khao Soi at a shop in front of Wat Sen.
The shop.
Flat noodles in soup with minced meat. The soup was plain but by mixing the meat and its sauce, breakfast was satisfying.
Mineral rich, blue pools. Scenic.
There are pools to swim in; however it was too cold for my liking and i was fine standing dry, watching the water fall peacefully.
Hiked to the top of the waterfall.
Splendour!
I told my friend that i ruined my travel for visiting this in the early part of my travel. Because i don't think i would see anything more beautiful than this! It took me awhile to contain my excitement and disbelief to actually see it before my eyes, as real as it was in the pictures.
There is a bear sanctuary located at the base of this site. I stopped by to be educated on bear status worldwide before leaving.
The Night Market at the main street was another favourite of mine in Laos and one of my favourite among the night markets i've been to. It was clean and calm; had a variety of local products to put your bargaining skill to test and a street food street for gastronomic seekers like me.
The bend to the street food street.
This was common and i realized it was a one-time vegetarian buffet. I bought a bowl and picked my food.
Meat at additional cost. The pork sausage was succulent.
These cute coconut pancakes also packed with sweetness.
Watching in veneration.
I had another noodle soup variation, this time, the Khao Piak at the Xieng Thong Noodle shop, near the entrance of the Wat Xieng Thong.
Thick noodles in cloudy soup. The addition of fried garlic was interesting.
The food and cafe scene in Luang Prabang was pretty good. A recommended place to chill was the Saffron Coffee as i sat overlooking the Mekong River...
... sipping Lao Latte.
Mekong River view.
A random shot of a fisherman.
I visited its branch in Phnom Penh; in Luang Prabang, the Khaiphaen Restaurant works the same- a vocational training restaurant for marginalized youth.
As the name of the restaurant, khaiphaen is also the river weed, a popular snack among locals. Served here with crispy rice, tomato and Hmong style mushroom.
Khaiphaen at Khaiphaen, get it?
The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center (25k kip) was small. However, it provided an overview to the multiple groups in the country.
Random shot while walking around town.
Nearby my hostel was Wat Visoun, famed for its 'Watermelon' stupa because of its shape and size. It did look different compared to other Wats in town.
See the shape?
My last dinner in Luang Prabang was at Coconut Garden. While the place was lovely, what i had was more than i could stomach. It was peculiar; i could not finish it (and it's rare to hear me say that): Or Lam. I reckoned it was the flavour of pepperwood and bitter leaves.
...
Just before i pack to leave Luang Prabang the next morning, i visited the Morning Market. It seemed alright until i noticed a lady selling exotic items. Skip picture below if worms, rats or beetles are not your everyday food.
Zoom if you want to.
Luang Prabang has definitely captured my heart. And i say this after my Laos journey: if you need to visit Laos, it is Luang Prabang. A friend of mine who intended to stay for 2 nights here ended up extending to 4 nights. There are many things to see or do and i admit, i have not seen or done all, but this was a great introduction. Why Laos? This is one-third of your answer.
"In case you were wondering if i went."
My Laos Journey: The Charming Luang Prabang
My Laos Journey: The Gorgeous Vang Vieng
My Laos Journey: The Capital Vientiane
I love Luang Prabang and it's one of my favourite cities I visited. I plan to return again some day.
ReplyDeleteHi Diane! Yes, i enjoyed Luang Prabang too and it is a beautiful town to sit back, relax while basking in the surrounding beauty and culture.
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