Seremban- A day's trip affair

Siew Pau is the first, clear thing that comes to mind when one speaks of Seremban. The second and third, and those that follow, come elusively. Whether it is food or travel, Seremban has often been off-the-map and is usually hid in the shadows of Kuala Lumpur and Melaka.


My friend suggested a one day 'makan' trip and Melaka was firstly nominated (as expected). But since being half-Melakan, i wanted to explore new places; and so began our research south of KL. With Google Map and some useful sites that recommend good eats, we finally decided to visit Seremban, Negeri Sembilan on Monday. We left Ampang past seven in the morning and arrived at our first destination an hour later- it could have been faster if not for the heavy morning traffic in KL.


Pasar Besar Seremban

 

I guess most Seremban folks are familiar with the Pasar Besar Seremban. As its name suggest, this market place is large- occupying the entire ground floor. Unlike the typical wet market, this market is relatively clean and is well-organized. Moving past stalls, we made our way to the upper floor where our breakfast awaited. Imagine a big food court- that is what we saw, with many food stalls at every corner. However, we were restricted and confined to order from food stalls near where we sat- so be sure where you want to really sit. This resulted in us having two rounds of breakfast.

The first round was beef noodle (first picture below) and beehoon sotong (second picture). Overall, the beef noodle was good. We ordered dry. The sauce was thick and the beef slices were tender. The shop owner said that the noodles are made by them. It tasted a bit like udon and pan mee. I expected more from the beehoon sotong but it was just okay. It was beehoon in gravy with slices of pork and its signature- squid. May be i am not much of a squid fan?

 

Round two was hakka mee. Even two against one, this innocent bowl of noodle emerged a winner. When the bowl arrived, it appeared like any ordinary hakka mee. But as we put them in our mouth, the aroma reached our noses and our taste buds danced. It was delicious and it had the oomph. The noodles were cooked perfectly and blended well with the minced pork. Quoted my friend, "I can eat this everyday if i live in Seremban". Highly recommended. 

What? Beef noodle
Where? Stall 748, Pasar Besar Seremban
How much? RM 6 per bowl as of 21 May 2012 in picture

What? Beehoon Sotong
Where? Stall 753, Pasar Besar Seremban
How much? RM 3.50 per plate as of 21 May 2012 in picture

What? Tow Kee Hakka noodle
Where? Stall 810, Pasar Besar Seremban
How much? RM 3.70 per bowl, medium sized as of 21 May 2012 in picture

Centipede Hill
I met my friend from Seremban at the market and we invited him to join us on this one day trip- and he then became our living GPS. This next visit was not in our itinerary or plan but since being adventurous, we visited. It was a temple on a hill known as the Centipede Hill. According to my friend, this name was given when two chess players noticed a centipede. I was amazed at the temple, partly because it was on a hill and partly because of the beauty of the temple itself.

 

There are the God of Mercy (picture, left), the Smiling Buddha, the Eight Immortals and the legendary characters from Journey to the West statues. Also, we can view the entire Seremban town from the temple.


Kedai Siew Pau Asia
After the hill, we went to Kedai Siew Pau Asia. Instead of the highly anticipated and well-known siew pau, i read about the recommendation on their egg tarts. At RM 1.30 per piece, the egg tart was mouthful.

 

Restoran Asia
Don't get confused with the use of word 'Asia' in the name of the shops- i know i did. Restoran Asia serves curry laksa as opposed to being a confectionery and they are not located next to each other.

 

This shop was recommended by many and i had my expectation. It was nicely met. Opens for breakfast until 2pm, we went for brunch and ordered a large bowl of curry laksa. The bowl of noodles came with cockles, pork slices, taufu pok and chicken. The soup was mouth watering! It tasted a bit like the Sarawak laksa, powdery and aromatic. The spiciness was enough to keep us from thirsting for water.

Highly recommended. Enough said.

What? Curry laksa
Where? Restoran Asia
How much? RM 4 for medium sized, RM 4.70 for large as of 21 May 2012

Kee Mei Siew Pow
Finally, our first, gastronomic encounter with the famous siew pau. This siew pau shop is near Restoran Asia so we decided to stop by, buy each at RM 1.30 and stock them up in the car as we made our way to the outskirt of Seremban for travel time.

Royal Museum Seri Menanti, Kuala Pilah
From our last stop, we drove about 30 minutes to reach this destination. Along the way, driving through kampungs and hills, we crossed the second tallest bridge in Malaysia. It was a surprise to us since not knowing such fact before this. Truly, road trip gives you great new experiences and exposures.

The Royal Museum Seri Menanti was one i was looking forward to visit as i knew little about it but was aware of its uniqueness. This old palace was built in 1902 and completed in 1908 (that's more than hundred years ago!) by local craftsmen known as Tukang Kahar and Tukang Taib. Inside the now museum, there was a painting dated in the 1920s of the palace. The palace in the painting was where it stands today only without modern additions for preservation and development at its surrounding area.

The uniqueness i was talking about? This old palace was built without the use of a single metal nail and this four-storey edifice features 99 others of the cengal wood to denote the 99 warriors of the various clans. A wonder, isn't it? Each floor was built to a different purpose, namely the Balai Rong Seri, chambers for the royal family, for the Yang Dipertuan Besar and treasury.

Touring around the Royal Museum, unfortunately, i felt disconnected as the information boards were lengthy and wordy. Although with many photographs, mostly portraits, there were a tad too many to digest in a short period of time. Who's who? Also, some sections of the museum were not properly lit and no hands-on trying on the replica, making the visit quick and less interesting. Except for the fact that we climbed until the top floor and knowing the unique features behind this old palace, a visit once to the Royal Museum Seri Menanti would suffice. Free admission.

Jelita Ostrich Farm
We moved from Seri Menanti then, crossed the bridge and searched for the sign board that points to Jelebu. Little did we know that Jelebu has another name- Kuala Klawang, and it was written so small on the sign board that we missed the turning. Having said that, we managed to find the route that brought us to our next destination.

It was my second visit to this farm- the first was when i followed my brother's kindergarten school trip years back. I hardly remembered how it looked like but surely, i remembered the ostrich ride. We arrived, unknowingly, at lunch time (1pm-2pm) but the workers were kind enough to accommodate us. Admission fee is RM 8 per person and after payment, Mr Said (i'm not sure if his name is spelled like this) provided us a tour at the farm. He began by sharing with us that this ostrich farm is the first of its kind in Malaysia and continued with the characteristics of the big bird. He has a good sense of humour and explains well.

This farm visit was one of the most memorable experiences throughout this one day trip. We got the chance to greet this big (and silly, as Said told us) birds, stand and carry their large eggs, ride on them and watch an ostrich race demonstrated by the workers. A certificate is awarded to those who rode the ostrich. Said went on to explain the male role of egg hatching. When the female lays the egg, the male sits on it, without food, without drink, until it hatches. He claimed this is how the name 'burung unta' is given in Malay (unta is camel). I say, here is to a father's love!

We talked about ostriches on the table too- its meat and egg (it's a 'makan' trip, right?), and i thought i would have the chance to taste them in the farm. No ostrich was injured when we left.

It was a quiet Monday at the farm when we were there. The farm is a good effort and i hope it will continue to draw crowd and maintain its facilities.

Restoran Yi Poh
If i hadn't seen how it's spelled, i thought it was Ipoh.

Lunch time, and i was starving. We finally went back to Seremban and to the shop opposite Kedai Siew Pau Asia. My friend recommended this local dish, of the same name Yi Poh Noodles. The noodle is like a cross between lai fan and chou mi fun, not too hard and not too soft either. It comes dry with, again, thick black sauce to mix with the noodles and pork slices. It has a unique flavour; no bad or good but just being different and definitely not found in KL. We were at the restaurant around 3pm and customers were still coming. Opens everyday from 7.30am to 6pm.

 

 

What? Yi Poh noodle
Where? Restoran Yi Poh
How much? RM 3.80 per medium sized bowl as of 21 May 2012


Cultural Center
With a happy tummy, we drove to the next stop- the Cultural Center. It is along the main road, near where we exited the highway into Seremban- yes, we passed by this place earlier in the morning. This Minangkabau architecture of the building impresses us from afar but sadly, like the Royal Museum Seri Menanti, a visit once would suffice.

There was not much to see except for the human skeleton in the exhibition. Mostly talking about megaliths, and many replicas of them, the exhibit boards were wordy. As we went to the upper floor, it was dusty and not well maintained. Luckily for the shelter, the rain came and we took some time to rest- stomach and feet. When it stopped, we toured around at the life-size houses on display. At the front, there were three replicas of megaliths carved that resemble a spoon, a sword and a rudder, which became known as Batu Kemudi, Batu Sudu and Batu Pedang.

 

Free admission.


Aeon Seremban
Time was on our side so we decided to visit the Jusco in Seremban. For tea break, we had Starbucks new beverage.


Seremban Siew Pau, Empayar
Round two of siew pau. This time, i had mine hot and freshly made, and it was outstanding! I saw the heat escaping from core with every bite, the fillings tasty and with just the right saltiness, and the crust crispy. No wonder people would turn in to this shop, seen by the highway, just to buy- i might just do that next time. RM 1.30 for a star. Bought some pieces to bring home (eat a piece while it's still hot), and now i regretted- i should have bought more!

Kedai Makanan Seremban, Seremban Seafood Village
Recommended by many, we settled down at this restaurant almost 7pm, rested, ordered and rested while we waited for our food to come.

Dinner arrived and we prepared to dig in- fork and spoon first, then our hands.We had their signature bean curd that was soft, delicate and its texture appeared much like a steamed egg- it's that smooth. The gravy was flavourful and it was a good start to dinner. Then we had Choi Tam, a vegetable to compensate for all the seafood and food we had for the day. Plain stir fry was a nice retreat.

Salted Egg Sea Mantis was next on the menu. It was tasty, especially at portions that were drenched with the salted egg. It was rather little but since we were a group of three, we had enough to share. The finale, the one that got us to use our hands, was the Baked Crabs- one of the highlights of the dinner. At 1kg, we had more to eat. The crab was succulent. The thick black sauce that layered the crab was salty- so salty that at one point when i tasted, it shot straight to the core. When the flesh is out, dip it into the chili sauce. Be careful, it is spicy so make sure you do not put too much on it. The chili sauce was definitely a plus point to the crab meat. Eat crabs only when you have all the time in the world, and enjoy- this is what i believe in when indulging on crabs. Take your time to break the shells and dig in to the fresh flesh. We sat, slowly eating the crab, and enjoyed peeling every bit until our stomachs got full. Baked Crabs, somehow i still don't get the 'Baked' part (may be it's baked then stir fried with the sauce) and might be slightly overrated, this restaurant is recommended.

 

What? Baked crabs, salted egg sea mantis, signature taufu (bean curd)
Where? Kedai Makanan Seremban, Seremban Seafood Village
How much? Baked crabs (RM 55/kg, picture is RM 55), salted egg sea mantis (RM 12) and signature bean curd (RM 8)

We left Seremban and arrived KL around 9pm. We were on schedule, we had what we planned, we enjoyed ourselves. Seremban is definitely a small town but it is not short of its wonders. There were traffic in Seremban but not like in KL.

So, if you ask me now about Seremban, the first thing is the siew pau. The second is the hakka noodle. The third is the curry laksa. And those that follow... are those in this post.

Here's to a successful day trip to Seremban!


*The above is written following the itinerary, as suggested if you are planning for a day trip to Seremban.
**Some photographs credited to friend TSM.

[Perak] Kellie's Castle

Yes, i've heard about the scary stories surrounding this historical building. But it was the love story- of passion and ambition, that repelled my fear and pulled me to the castle.

It is very easy to find Kellie's Castle. From KL, exit at Gopeng toll station, drive towards Ipoh and turn left at the junction that leads to Batu Gajah. The castle is situated along the main road. Opens at 9 am to 6 pm everyday, the fees are generally RM 3 per adult and RM 1 per child. This unfinished, ruined castle was built by William Kellie Smith, a Scottish planter, in 1915.

There are two parts in Kellie's Castle today: Smith's first mansion, Kellie House and the incomplete Castle. Like the Taj Mahal, i see this castle, among many references, as a gift of Kellie to his wife, Agnes Smith and a home for his family after the arrival of their second child, son Anthony (first child, daughter Helen). Kellie was fascinated with the Hindu religion and Indian culture that the architecture of the castle included those of Madras- the bricks and tiles were imported from India. It is also a wonderment that Kellie's Castle was to feature the first elevator in Malaya upon completion and has two tunnels that run under the river nearby.

Sadly, the construction of Kellie's Castle faced difficulties. Spanish flu infected Smith's workers (a Hindu temple was advised to be built to appease the gods, construction resumed), Smith died of pneumonia and his wife later sold the estate.

A touching story in the heart of Perak.

I visited Kellie's Castle in the afternoon. There were other visitors entering the premise- an indication that people still come to visit Kellie's Castle. From afar, the Castle impressed me especially the colour of the building and its design. Crossing over the bridge towards the Castle, i told myself: i am finally here, after three years, studying at a university close by. I came to Kellie's Castle once when i was young. This refreshed my memory, to say the least.

We first entered the Kellie House. There are signs pasted on the walls of the building to provide information about the room. There are many rooms in the House and the Castle- i could imagine myself getting lost in the ruins.

The kitchen. This is an oven made of bricks over 100 years.

The bathroom with marble tiles important from Italy.

View of the House.

We stepped foot onto the Castle next, moving from room to room, climbing flights of stairs so narrow that it fits only one person at a time, and floor to floor to the rooftop.

View of the back of the Castle from the House.

The second floor corridor. It is said that Smith's spirit roams these corridors as seen at night. After admiring the intricacy of wall carvings, along with the bats, we climbed to the rooftop.

At the rooftop. Here is where Smith planned to build an indoor tennis court and for parties to be held- it was a hub for entertaining wealthy colonial planters who settled in Malaya. Interesting, and pretty cool, isn't it? It is high enough to keep you off the edge.

From the top, we went to the bottom- to the cellar and the said entrance of an underground tunnel. The cellar was dark. Afterward, we exited the Castle through the side, passed the Guard house and the stable- Smith was said to be a fan of horses.


We left the premise not long after this last shot was taken. Kellie's Castle also provides a great setting for photography- pictures courtesy of YH.

In short, i enjoyed my visit to Kellie's Castle. It may not be much, but both the House and the Castle have something to offer. I can't find the right word for it.

Touched, may be, by a castle and its story here in my home.

[KL] Uncle Jang Korean Restoran, Ampang Branch

I am not really a fan of Korean food. But this place offers a change to the usual, and probably, something different that is worth a try.

My sister recommended Uncle Jang Korean Restoran and since it was her birthday, she brought us to this restaurant, claiming it to be different. I have to admit that she was right: the visit to the restaurant came with a unique spin.

Upon entering the restaurant, i noticed each table has a hot plate on it. The tables were divided into two: one low enough that allows us to sit on the floor and eat, and another for us to sit on the chair. We sat, a bottle of water was brought to our table, and we began placing our orders. We ordered hot plate chicken (minimum of 2 persons, so we chose one Original and one Spicy) and Ramen noodles.


Our orders arrived and the waiter tossed the raw food onto the hot plate. The underneath of the table did get a little warm and sitting in front of the stove felt like being in a 'Teppanyaki' restaurant.


Lots of raw cabbage, chicken, tapioca and rice cake centered on the hot plate. The waiter was there to stir for us but we can also do (or play) it ourselves.


Toss and turn, the reddish sauce smeared the chicken and the cabbage. I could not resist the smell of the dish being cooked. It smelled good and it tempted my appetite. When the chicken was cooked, the Ramen noodle was added to the hot plate. Minutes later when the waiter invited us to eat, we dived onto the hot plate, searching for Ramen noodles, chicken pieces and rice cake.


My plate for lunch. It smelled nice; it looked good; it tasted great. The sourish taste blended well with the tenderness and sweetness of the chicken, and the pinch of spiciness added flavour to the dish.


Like most Korean food restaurants, the green lettuce was served too. Food from the hot plate- chicken and cabbage, were placed and sandwiched between the leafy lettuce, and i ate like a tortoise, taking one lettuce after another. It was just so green.

At the end of our lunch, we were served dessert- on the house.

The friendly people and this new experience at a Korean restaurant opened my eyes to the variety of its cuisine. I am sure i will be back at this restaurant to try the other, unique Korean dishes it has to offer.

What? Korean food on hot plate
Where? Uncle Jang Korean Restoran (Ampang Branch), D7, Jln Excella ll, Excella lll, Off Jalan Ampang Putra, Taman Ampang Hilir, KL.
When? Everyday, lunch (12-3pm), dinner (5.30-10.30pm, Tuesdays open at 5pm)
How much? Hot plate Chicken Original (RM 19), Spicy (RM 22), Ramen noodle (RM 6) as of 25 March 2012

[Perak] Kafe All Inn and Thean Chun

One of the many reasons a visitor goes to Ipoh is for an 'makan' (eating) spree. I know i am one of them, and when it comes to food, i find it difficult to resist.

This short visit brought me to a place i have been for numerous times. Now i wish to recommend. The shops are located opposite each other, and their neighbour, Kong Heng, is just next door. My suggestion is to have your meal at Thean Chun then a dessert break at Kafe All Inn.

At Thean Chun, the Ipoh 'Hor Fun', Ipoh Chicken Slice Noodles is recommended. Not only here but you can see pasted on its shop the numerous recommendation by other food critic.

You will hardly miss this stall as it is usually crowded especially during peak hours. Apart from the smooth kuay teow noodles, what makes this dish a winner is the soup. It has that oomph that lingers in your month, sweetened by the chicken and prawn slices.

Crossing to the opposite side of the road is the Kafe All Inn, and i recommend this shop is because of one particular dessert.

Don't be deceived by its look. This Pumpkin Dessert is a must-eat! It is healthy because of the pumpkin, sweet because of the coconut, and lovely because of the sago. Mix them well and your cravings for dessert, especially for one with pumpkin, will force you back here. Sells out fast.

Aloe Vera dessert, another dessert sold in the shop if pumpkin is not your liking. There are several Chinese 'tong shui' dessert from you to choose from.

Here it is.

What? Ipoh Chicken Slice Noodles at Thean Cafe and Pumpkin Dessert at Kafe All Inn
When? Breakfast and lunch
How much? Ipoh Chicken Slice Noodles normal (RM 4), Pumpkin Dessert (RM 3)

[KL] Healy Mac's Changkat Bukit Bintang

There is something about Healy Mac's Irish Bar and Restaurant that makes me want to return for more. Whether it is the place, the ambiance, the food or the drink, I cannot really pinpoint as they score equally the same.

I went to the branch in Greentown, Ipoh and was impressed with my little time spent on its food. I grew aware of its existence in KL, particularly in Changkat Bukit Bintang, and recommended the venue for a special occasion.

My family and i visited Healy Mac's on a Friday night. We arrived nearly half past eight. The entrance was crowded- other customers looking at us, as we made our way to the balcony upstairs. We sat on a barrel-cum table and were entertained by a friendly waiter. After placing our orders, our waiting period was filled with great music.

Chicken Parmigiano, one of my favourites and is highly recommended for chicken lovers! The crust of the meat is crunchy and crispy; fragrant and flavourful with its sauce. The meat is cooked to perfection.

Aglio Olio Spaghetti. This dish jumbles all things together- a taste of bacon and salmon; corn, broccoli and asparagus. My expectation for this dish was higher. It was just okay- in comparison to my other pasta dish ordered.

This is a winner- the 'other pasta dish' i mentioned. This Penne Seafood Carbonara comes in a white wine cream sauce with prawns and mushroom. It is creamy, packs a punch and delicious. Recommended.

Now for the drink, a pint of Kilkenny.

This awesome Organic Pork Knuckle (1.3kg) dish stole the night, leaving us in full-bellies. It is roasted, served with potatoes and Sauerkraunt. It took us some time to finish the entire plate but surely, it was tasty. For extra flavour, you can dip in sauce.

The portion of the food is large, so for smaller eaters, you can opt to share. A little pricier for normal dinner but sometimes we need to know how to save and spend. Definitely will be back for more, and more, that is, to explore the other dishes on the menu. A splendid place to hang out.

If only the branch at Changkat, KL serves pizza like the one in Greentown, Ipoh, i can only imagine how my stomach will be on that fateful night. The pizzas that are freshly made are surely one to indulge in.

Where? Healy Mac's Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL
When? Lunch and dinner until late
How much? Chicken Parmigiano (RM 38), Aglio Olio Spaghetti (RM 33), Penne Seafood Carbonara (RM 39) and Organic Pork Knuckle, 1.3kg (RM 60+).