My India Journey: Mumbai moments
When i think of India, i think of Taj Mahal. And i thought it would be the reason i make a visit to the country. However, when a work opportunity arose, it was Mumbai that was listed on the letter. I did a quick Google search then only to realize the huge size of India- and i scraped that Taj Mahal intent altogether, perhaps for another time. My month-long stint there renewed perspectives of life and cemented its motto of being an incredible country.
Namaste!
My night flight from KLIA took approximately five hours and i arrived at Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport (BOM) near midnight. The time difference was two and a half hours. It was mostly warm and dry in March. As i already obtained the sticker visa, immigration check was quick. I collected my luggage and met my designated driver, immediately noticing the crowd at the arrival hall. Actually, i wasn't exactly staying in Mumbai. I set up camp in Navi Mumbai- the new.
The ride to my hotel took about an hour. It was a teaser to what this journey included. I was instantly taken aback, observing the stark contrast between rich and poor. Five star hotels backdropped the rows of people sleeping by the road. Even in the wee hours, there was traffic, honking was a norm although it didn't sound offensive (may be a greeting between drivers) and manuveuring (read squeeze) felt common. Along the highway, i observed men stopped by the side to relieve themselves- facing the bushes of course!
Yogi Midtown Hotel was a decent accommodation. Breakfast and dinner buffets were included throughout my business stay. I had tomato chutney for days as a dip to go along with my idli, vadai or roti, and i enjoyed it terribly that i took it like a soup! Pav was a staple here too, a local bun with accompanying dips so i covered my must-eats through the hotel meals. There were other international cuisines served too. One day, we had Malaysian noodles. Housekeeping ensured i returned to my room after work with tidied bed and clean bathroom. Desk service was friendly. Laundry wasn't perfect. There was a small gym and pool at the top floor but i never used them. I blame it on no time.
Possibly the icon of Mumbai, my first see was the Gateway of India with my colleagues in the morning when the crowd was manageable. This arch monument, completed in 1924, was initially erected to commemorate the entrance of the first British monarch who visited India in 1911. Since then, it experienced other historical events such as the departure of British troops, a terror attack and recently, a fashion show.
There was no proper signage or booth indicating the island of interest. I read online to go to the official operator but there were many locals advertising the service as we walked past. I also read online that the jetty was on the left side- in reality, however, it seemed to have boats on all sides. So, i asked around. One family couldn't speak English but shook heads when i mentioned the island. One family sort of ignored us. Then, one operator pointed us to the correct gate. There were other foreign visitors on the boat with us so we were confident.
The boat cruised towards the dusty horizon and an hour later, we arrived at Elephanta Island (midway, our boat was pulled over and checked by an official but resumed shortly after). This was just halfway to the main destination. We continued on foot along the paved jetty and climbed steps lined with souvenir stalls.
The fare for foreigners were rather exorbitant compared to prices for locals. The fee was officially stated on the board. This UNESCO world heritage site was a cave complex with multiple sculptures.
We routed to the Cannon Hill next. The initial hike was steep but soon, it plataeud and we could walk instead.
The boat ride back was about forty five minutes- we suspected it was a newer, better, hence faster boat.
I watched Hotel Mumbai. Being there, i learned more about the terror news of the Mumbai Attack 2008. Upon returning to land, we walked past the hotel that was held siege for 4 days, and entered a good looking Starbucks.
A popular restaurant in Mumbai, we dined in at Leopold Cafe. It was a breather relative to the packed street outside, part of the Colaba Causeway stretch which was a shopping letdown for me. Tables and chairs were arranged narrowly but at least it wasn't fully occupied during our visit. This eatery was another target of the Attack.
I don't watch Bollywood movies- here being its centre. I did watch Slumdog Millionaire but that doesn't count, right? Still, i made it a point to see their sets. On most days, i passed by Dharavi slum. It was hectic, never without people. I could see the tight, shoulder-width wall to wall passageway. I wonder how life was during the peak of the Covid-19 pandemic.
Another UNESCO recognized site, also a set of the Oscar-winning movie, or specifically, the energetic Jai Ho music video, was the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. Personally, this was my favourite place to explore in this bustling city.
We did a lot of walking that day. I was fascinated by the many colonial and gothic building architecture.
On menus in eateries, veg (in green) and/or non-veg (in red) options for customers were displayed. There are many locals who are vegetarians. These distinct logos can be seen on food packaging too. Frankly, i was dumbfounded when i read buffalo on the menu. Cows are sacred here.
Funny story. I attempted to order Biryani by the Kilo online. Tip, if you're staying long in a country, get a local sim card. It will be useful, even necessary, when installing to use e-hailing or food delivery apps. I managed to order upon chatting with their customer service and successfully got it delivered to my hotel. The food delivery guy, however, wasn't too happy as he couldn't call my provided phone number.
Here is where it got funny. I brought my food up to my room and excitedly opened the plastic bag. The pot was sealed with hardened dough and i tried to pry it open. It didn't budge. After several futile attempts, i carried the pot to the hotel reception to ask if the kitchen staff could assist me with this struggle. Thankfully, they did- it loosened and i returned to my room. So much effort for this?
I had the Lucknowi chicken biryani. The earthenware pot is called handi. Cooked dum with the seal is said to retain flavours and aroma while letting the ingredients breathe in. It came served in layers with rice at the top and ingredients at the bottom. Stirred well for a yummy heavy meal. Worth the effort!
One night, we were entertained by a local musician while dining in at the nearby Ooh Pitara! Bar and Kitchen. The mutton was tender- one of its most tender i've ever eaten, and the butter chicken was flavourful. Naan was the ideal partner.
Colours- how have i not mentioned about colours yet! I was there during the Holi festival. Although i didn't participate, i could see faces, clothes and roads covered in coloured powder. It was the murals that ultimately amused me, and surprisingly it had not come up in any of my reads about the city. Stretch after stretch, almost everywhere was artistically painted. Some photos are blurry due to me being in a moving vehicle.
There were modern buildings too, futuristic even, especially in the Bandra Kurla Complex- a business district area.
Apart from Ikea, i visited two other shopping malls for shopping/memorabilia- and frequented Fabindia and The Bombay Store. Goods were pricier, no bargaining- so for ease/convenience, i took them at face value and quality.
Unfortunately, i encountered a tummy upset after two weeks in. I avoided street food yet it got to me. Thankfully, it was a mild one and after some medication, i was back to eating the delicious meals, albeit slowing down on the spices before ramping it up again.
Frankly, there was only so much i could do or see during my stay in the city. So one night, we revisited some places to enjoy the night lights.
At arrival, i didn't pause much to take photos but i noticed that the airport looked new and clean. While waiting for my flight home at the departure gate, i managed to explore more of the airport.
I could say that at times, i was overwhelmed by the sights and sounds especially on the road. It was congested and i don't think i'd be brave enough to drive there. There were a lot of people- India claims to becoming the densest population in the world in the next few years and Mumbai has an estimated 21 million people in 2023. Mostly sandy, dusty, i think from various industries and rapid constructions. I could see the Mumbai Metro ad plastered around, extending its reach.
I recalled an incident whereby i was approached by a duo of kids for money/food while waiting for an Uber ride. I heavy-heartedly ignored them but they were adamant. Even when i entered the car, they waited by the door and i couldn't close it. I was reluctant to give, afraid of being scammed. The driver then forked out some cash for them and they left.
Hygiene was not as extreme as i'd seen on videos or stories i heard (like using bottled water to brush teeth); needless to say i was mostly in proper, picky environments. In essence, it was a good experience that definitely continued to open my eyes and mind on this side of the world.
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