My KK Journey: Paths of Glory
Yes, i am referencing my favourite book from Jeffrey Archer, Paths of Glory, a story about mountain climbing but no, i am not talking about Mount Everest. In this post, i will share with you my climb to the summit of one of the highest mountains in this region, Mount Kinabalu, and the scenic sights along its path.
First and foremost, we needed to get to Kinabalu Park and finding the transport there was a long story. On the day before, we went searching for the public bus that would bring us there. From Wawasan Plaza, we walked to Center Point and asked the information counter for the bus stand. Unfamiliar, she told us to ask at the taxi stand. We walked out to the taxi stand and they pointed another taxi stand near the city park to us. We continued walking. Not wanting to use a taxi to get to Kinabalu Park, one of the drivers showed us the direction to the bus stand. We finally arrived at the bus stand in front of a glass building and identified the bus we needed to get on to go to Kinabalu Park. Actually, the bus stand is nearby the Backpackers and near the Atkinson Clock Tower. So much for adventure.
We woke up early in the morning to catch the bus to Ranau by 7am (tell the driver to stop at Kinabalu Park and he'll inform you when to get down). Price was RM 20. Usually, the bus will wait until it is fully loaded to depart. We left almost half an hour later and the ride took us approximately two hours. I met a lovely newly-wed couple from Jeju Island, Korea, and talking along the way did make the journey feel shorter (i finally understood the mystery behind the mysterious road on the island). On the way up, we peeked out the window to catch a glimpse of the Mount Kinabalu peak- rocky, cold and exciting. Almost reaching, the road does get a little winding.
Kinabalu Park
Gazetted on 16 January 1964 and inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site on 2 December 2000, Kinabalu Park has 'outstanding examples representing significant on-going ecological and biological processes in the evolution and development of terrestrial ecosystem'. With more than 6000 species of plants, 101 species of mammals and 326 types of birds in this 753.7 square kilometer park, it is no wonder that this park, where the highest mountain in South East Asia is located, is a natural beauty, the pride of Sabah and Malaysia, and the choice for nature lovers and climbing enthusiasts.
We paid RM 3 for conservation fee (Malaysian adult) upon entrance. Since we were early, we kept our baggage at the store room, settled our climbing matters (RM 143 per mountain guide, confirmed our names, obtained our permits and arranged transport) and explored the surrounding area.
89 Station Restaurant
We had Chinese lunch outside of Kinabalu Park, about 15 minutes walk towards Ranau. Lunch was cheap. Three dishes, small portion but enough for all, and rice for RM 27.
Desa Cattle Dairy Farm
After lunch, we returned to Kinabalu Park and took a taxi (RM 150 return) to the Desa Cattle Dairy Farm near Kundasang. It took us about 20 minutes through hilly terrain and upon entering the farm, we paid RM 4 for entrance. We scheduled the visit to the farm before lunch but due to an overturned vehicle, the road was closed and everyone had to visit the farm in the afternoon. So, it was crowded. I could definitely smell the smell of cow dung and it reminded me of my time at the zoo. On the other hand, the view was beautiful and i could understand why this place is nicknamed the Malaysian New Zealand.
It was raining on our way back to Kinabalu Park when we encountered a car whose driver did not make it up a rather steep slope in the opposite direction. The car halted then went backwards, until the back tire entered a hole and the car got stuck. Unable to move and only two ladies in the car, we decided to help the car (and the drivers) out of misery. Quickly, the car was out and running (hit the oil!). Humanity restored.
Mesilau Nature Resort
Funny how we returned to Kinabalu Park for our transport to Mesilau Nature Resort which uses the same route to the Desa Cattle Dairy Farm, and the same taxi driver. Lesson learned: get the directions and locations of the places. Perhaps, we could get a discount for our taxi to the farm (and if we had known, the car might still be stuck).
Once checked in, the friendly front desk officer brought us to our lodge (or dorm-style cabin). The place is lovely. From the Backpackers to here was like checking into a 5-star hotel. Good toilet amenities and comfortable beds. After settling down, we headed for buffet dinner at the nearby restaurant. Full, we rested for the night and prepared for the big day ahead.
Mesilau Trail- The Climb
After breakfast, we met our mountain guide, Alif at the starting point- he's 19, younger than i am but whenever i called him, i called him 'abang' bro. He briefed us on the dos and don'ts while climbing. We bought a wooden walking stick (RM 5)- my friends told me that this was the best investment for the climb and i second that now. Without a porter, almost 8 kg weight of backpack strapped to my back, i was geared up to climb. For this part of the climb, short sports pants, drinking water and good climbing shoes were sufficient. Mesilau Trail is 2 kilometers longer than Timpohon Trail (another trail which i used for the descend) but it offers more along the way: waterfalls, greens, and ups and downs.
We had packed lunch so along the way, i had bananas and sandwiches to replenish my draining energy. Breaks and rests at shelters became my favourite spots because the legs, especially the knees, slowly ached. But our guide advised us to not spend too long at the shelter for the leg becomes lazy. Off, i continued on. My legs trembled when i saw more steps or stairs or rocks to climb on.
Along the way, i met with different groups of people: local students and teachers, blind people, people from other countries and just after the junction to turn towards Laban Rata- our destination, i met the newly-wed couple.
The joy of reaching Laban Rata was inexplicable. After 7 and a half hours of climbing, i dashed into the dining area. We were just in time for dinner and i was more happy than i was tired.
Gunting Lagadan, Laban Rata
After dinner, we checked in at our rest house up of Laban Rata- means more climbing again. The room was small, no heater and no water heater- so i didn't bath, water was freezing cold that my fingers were quickly numbed when i washed my hands, but i wasn't entirely dirty. Here, i could feel the effect of thinning of the air and i prayed that i can complete the ascend to the summit tomorrow. I slept about 8 pm and woke up around 1 am for supper at 2 am at Laban Rata.
The Ascend
We left almost 2.45 am with our headlight, jackets, gloves and cap on, and a burning desire. One of my life goals within my grasp but the toughest hurdle is always to finish it. We climbed on stairs then rocks. Stairs and rocks that seemed to stretch endlessly to the sky. I could feel myself breathing deep and my legs heavy. In the dark, there was nothing to look at but the spot the headlight shone on, the twinkling stars in the night sky and the nearby lit towns. And when i looked behind, the sight of trailing lights was pretty. It was not smooth climbing all the way up for me; i had to stop frequently to catch my breath and get accustomed to the low oxygen in the air.
Then came the rope- and the real feel of climbing. No more sand and soil, just rocks. Some climbers decided that this was their limit. They would watch the sunrise from here. It was not because the fear going up but they were afraid when coming down- some parts are steep. I tried not too imagine, and my friend and i moved from one rope to another, me taking more rests than usual because the air felt really thin. Slowly but surely, i was pushing myself mentally, pulling myself physically until i arrived at the check point at Sayat-Sayat Hut. Here, we displayed our tags and they noted our presence. The in and out must tally.
The sky slowly turned blue and i was against the clock- another challenge. We were not encouraged to stay beyond 7.30 am at the summit for the mist may get too thick and visibility becomes too low when descending. Still, i had to take breaks almost every ten steps. I needed to breathe. My mental strength, which i believe was strong, could take me this far and now, i had to depend on my physical strength to take me to the peak. I was near to giving up- but because the only thing that could stop me was my health and i knew i could continue, i kept pushing forward. Slow paced, but ascending. When i saw the South Peak and identified the popular RM 1 sight of the mountain, my spirit was fired up. The 8 km sign boosted my overall and i attempted to quicken my pace. Time was of essence. With me was a blind man and his guide, and watching them ascend to the summit motivated me. I said to myself, 'i am this near; i am not giving up!' over and over again.
As daunting as the task was, i was there, at Low's Peak 4095.2 m, above the clouds. My mission accomplished; one of my life goals checked. The view from the peak was picturesque and the feeling standing at the top of the mountain was speechless. Overcame with joy, i was close to tears (the blind man's eyes began to redden and i thank him for inspiring me to never give up). I truly respect this mountain and am ultimately grateful for the safe climb. Weather was amazing on the date of my climb.
The Descend
With the sun up in the sky, i could see the paths i came from. The rocky terrain, mountain flora, water puddles and little townships. I maintained my pace as i descended, looking left and right to soak in this rare view. I also saw tents pitched near the Sayat-Sayat Hut.
I arrived at Gunting Lagaban after two hours and had breakfast at Laban Rata before returning to Kinabalu Park via Timpohon Trail.
Timpohon Trail
It was all the way down- rocks and stairs. I could feel my knees wobbling. We took breaks at the shelter and then continued down. I could breathe normally again.
From the Timpohon Gate, we had a taxi waiting for us to bring us back to Kinabalu Park. The descend took us almost four hours. One of those memories that will stay with me for eternity. The joy, the sense of accomplishment and the journey to the summit were beyond what words can express. Why did i want to climb Mount Kinabalu? Because i want to challenge myself. Because i want to push myself to my limits. Because i'm still young. And because "it's there". Will i climb the mountain again? Perhaps. But not in the near future. Even looking at steps gives me chills now.
Little Italy, KK City
After lunch at Kinabalu Park and got our certificates, we took a taxi to KK city- we were too tired to wait, plus chances of getting a bus or van were slim at that hour. We paid RM 150 which was a reasonable amount, knowing the driver needs to make his way back to Kinabalu Park from the city. Ride back was about two hours- and i slept half the time. Checked in at Borneo Backpackers, rested, had one of the best baths ever, and then went out looking for dinner.
Little Italy is a cozy diner near Suria Shopping Complex and is rated well in TripAdvisor. It is a popular spot for locals to have Italian cuisine. We went in to a full house that night. We got a place for three, sat, flipped the menu and placed our orders.
My KK Journey: Sand and the City
My KK Journey: Paths of Glory
My KK Journey: 'Terbalik' and the Next Stop
First and foremost, we needed to get to Kinabalu Park and finding the transport there was a long story. On the day before, we went searching for the public bus that would bring us there. From Wawasan Plaza, we walked to Center Point and asked the information counter for the bus stand. Unfamiliar, she told us to ask at the taxi stand. We walked out to the taxi stand and they pointed another taxi stand near the city park to us. We continued walking. Not wanting to use a taxi to get to Kinabalu Park, one of the drivers showed us the direction to the bus stand. We finally arrived at the bus stand in front of a glass building and identified the bus we needed to get on to go to Kinabalu Park. Actually, the bus stand is nearby the Backpackers and near the Atkinson Clock Tower. So much for adventure.
We woke up early in the morning to catch the bus to Ranau by 7am (tell the driver to stop at Kinabalu Park and he'll inform you when to get down). Price was RM 20. Usually, the bus will wait until it is fully loaded to depart. We left almost half an hour later and the ride took us approximately two hours. I met a lovely newly-wed couple from Jeju Island, Korea, and talking along the way did make the journey feel shorter (i finally understood the mystery behind the mysterious road on the island). On the way up, we peeked out the window to catch a glimpse of the Mount Kinabalu peak- rocky, cold and exciting. Almost reaching, the road does get a little winding.
Kinabalu Park
Gazetted on 16 January 1964 and inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site on 2 December 2000, Kinabalu Park has 'outstanding examples representing significant on-going ecological and biological processes in the evolution and development of terrestrial ecosystem'. With more than 6000 species of plants, 101 species of mammals and 326 types of birds in this 753.7 square kilometer park, it is no wonder that this park, where the highest mountain in South East Asia is located, is a natural beauty, the pride of Sabah and Malaysia, and the choice for nature lovers and climbing enthusiasts.
With the rock at Kinabalu Park.
We paid RM 3 for conservation fee (Malaysian adult) upon entrance. Since we were early, we kept our baggage at the store room, settled our climbing matters (RM 143 per mountain guide, confirmed our names, obtained our permits and arranged transport) and explored the surrounding area.
89 Station Restaurant
We had Chinese lunch outside of Kinabalu Park, about 15 minutes walk towards Ranau. Lunch was cheap. Three dishes, small portion but enough for all, and rice for RM 27.
By the roadside for Chinese cuisine lunch.
Warm soup to warm the stomach.
What i went for- wild boar meat. Some parts were tough, some parts were tender.
Desa Cattle Dairy Farm
After lunch, we returned to Kinabalu Park and took a taxi (RM 150 return) to the Desa Cattle Dairy Farm near Kundasang. It took us about 20 minutes through hilly terrain and upon entering the farm, we paid RM 4 for entrance. We scheduled the visit to the farm before lunch but due to an overturned vehicle, the road was closed and everyone had to visit the farm in the afternoon. So, it was crowded. I could definitely smell the smell of cow dung and it reminded me of my time at the zoo. On the other hand, the view was beautiful and i could understand why this place is nicknamed the Malaysian New Zealand.
Count the cows.
The milking process. No more manual milking.
Cow herding against a tranquil background.
You can buy grass or milk to feed the young at the barn.
I just had to snap this photograph with the moving blue tractor. Farm experience much?
It was raining on our way back to Kinabalu Park when we encountered a car whose driver did not make it up a rather steep slope in the opposite direction. The car halted then went backwards, until the back tire entered a hole and the car got stuck. Unable to move and only two ladies in the car, we decided to help the car (and the drivers) out of misery. Quickly, the car was out and running (hit the oil!). Humanity restored.
Mesilau Nature Resort
Funny how we returned to Kinabalu Park for our transport to Mesilau Nature Resort which uses the same route to the Desa Cattle Dairy Farm, and the same taxi driver. Lesson learned: get the directions and locations of the places. Perhaps, we could get a discount for our taxi to the farm (and if we had known, the car might still be stuck).
Once checked in, the friendly front desk officer brought us to our lodge (or dorm-style cabin). The place is lovely. From the Backpackers to here was like checking into a 5-star hotel. Good toilet amenities and comfortable beds. After settling down, we headed for buffet dinner at the nearby restaurant. Full, we rested for the night and prepared for the big day ahead.
Mesilau Trail- The Climb
After breakfast, we met our mountain guide, Alif at the starting point- he's 19, younger than i am but whenever i called him, i called him 'abang' bro. He briefed us on the dos and don'ts while climbing. We bought a wooden walking stick (RM 5)- my friends told me that this was the best investment for the climb and i second that now. Without a porter, almost 8 kg weight of backpack strapped to my back, i was geared up to climb. For this part of the climb, short sports pants, drinking water and good climbing shoes were sufficient. Mesilau Trail is 2 kilometers longer than Timpohon Trail (another trail which i used for the descend) but it offers more along the way: waterfalls, greens, and ups and downs.
Me with the Gandalf's-like walking stick, preparing to begin my climb.
One of the waterfalls along the way.
Another splendid waterfall to stop, enjoy, and then continue.
I sighed just looking at where i needed to go.
Pitcher plant aplenty.
We had packed lunch so along the way, i had bananas and sandwiches to replenish my draining energy. Breaks and rests at shelters became my favourite spots because the legs, especially the knees, slowly ached. But our guide advised us to not spend too long at the shelter for the leg becomes lazy. Off, i continued on. My legs trembled when i saw more steps or stairs or rocks to climb on.
Hairy finger-like plants. More unique plants could be seen when ascending.
With the peaceful surrounding, one cannot but take a step back and enjoy the greenery.
Odd looking leaves.
More greens for the eyes.
Even more odd looking plant. It's like coral reefs, but we're not in the ocean.
Along the way, i met with different groups of people: local students and teachers, blind people, people from other countries and just after the junction to turn towards Laban Rata- our destination, i met the newly-wed couple.
Trees above the clouds.
Almost there.
The joy of reaching Laban Rata was inexplicable. After 7 and a half hours of climbing, i dashed into the dining area. We were just in time for dinner and i was more happy than i was tired.
Gunting Lagadan, Laban Rata
After dinner, we checked in at our rest house up of Laban Rata- means more climbing again. The room was small, no heater and no water heater- so i didn't bath, water was freezing cold that my fingers were quickly numbed when i washed my hands, but i wasn't entirely dirty. Here, i could feel the effect of thinning of the air and i prayed that i can complete the ascend to the summit tomorrow. I slept about 8 pm and woke up around 1 am for supper at 2 am at Laban Rata.
Buffet dinner with other climbers- at 4.30pm.
My hearty meal.
Outside of our hut.
The Ascend
We left almost 2.45 am with our headlight, jackets, gloves and cap on, and a burning desire. One of my life goals within my grasp but the toughest hurdle is always to finish it. We climbed on stairs then rocks. Stairs and rocks that seemed to stretch endlessly to the sky. I could feel myself breathing deep and my legs heavy. In the dark, there was nothing to look at but the spot the headlight shone on, the twinkling stars in the night sky and the nearby lit towns. And when i looked behind, the sight of trailing lights was pretty. It was not smooth climbing all the way up for me; i had to stop frequently to catch my breath and get accustomed to the low oxygen in the air.
Then came the rope- and the real feel of climbing. No more sand and soil, just rocks. Some climbers decided that this was their limit. They would watch the sunrise from here. It was not because the fear going up but they were afraid when coming down- some parts are steep. I tried not too imagine, and my friend and i moved from one rope to another, me taking more rests than usual because the air felt really thin. Slowly but surely, i was pushing myself mentally, pulling myself physically until i arrived at the check point at Sayat-Sayat Hut. Here, we displayed our tags and they noted our presence. The in and out must tally.
The sky slowly turned blue and i was against the clock- another challenge. We were not encouraged to stay beyond 7.30 am at the summit for the mist may get too thick and visibility becomes too low when descending. Still, i had to take breaks almost every ten steps. I needed to breathe. My mental strength, which i believe was strong, could take me this far and now, i had to depend on my physical strength to take me to the peak. I was near to giving up- but because the only thing that could stop me was my health and i knew i could continue, i kept pushing forward. Slow paced, but ascending. When i saw the South Peak and identified the popular RM 1 sight of the mountain, my spirit was fired up. The 8 km sign boosted my overall and i attempted to quicken my pace. Time was of essence. With me was a blind man and his guide, and watching them ascend to the summit motivated me. I said to myself, 'i am this near; i am not giving up!' over and over again.
Posing with the iconic RM 1 note peak, South Peak.
Here's with the note. See the resemblance?
And with the change in Malaysian notes, this peak is printed onto the RM 100 note.
Just... another... few... meters.. to... go...
Sun's rising and i could see my surrounding clearer now.
Taken at the peak, over the fence. Magnificent, isn't it?
I felt like i was on top of the world! A magical and truly memorable moment.
Climbed to the summit of Mount Kinabalu on the 16 September 2013, Malaysia Day. I am a proud Malaysian.
The Descend
With the sun up in the sky, i could see the paths i came from. The rocky terrain, mountain flora, water puddles and little townships. I maintained my pace as i descended, looking left and right to soak in this rare view. I also saw tents pitched near the Sayat-Sayat Hut.
Enjoyed the climb down.
Flowers at the top- at this altitude!
And i first thought there was a lake at the summit. Water puddles around the summit.
See the little hut? That's where i was a few hours ago in the dark and where i'm going from here.
I held tight to the rope especially when making corners.
Back to seeing greens from the greys.
With the rocks and the greens in harmony.
I arrived at Gunting Lagaban after two hours and had breakfast at Laban Rata before returning to Kinabalu Park via Timpohon Trail.
Timpohon Trail
It was all the way down- rocks and stairs. I could feel my knees wobbling. We took breaks at the shelter and then continued down. I could breathe normally again.
Rocky then steps all the way down.
The charming Carson Fall awaits us near our end gate.
From the Timpohon Gate, we had a taxi waiting for us to bring us back to Kinabalu Park. The descend took us almost four hours. One of those memories that will stay with me for eternity. The joy, the sense of accomplishment and the journey to the summit were beyond what words can express. Why did i want to climb Mount Kinabalu? Because i want to challenge myself. Because i want to push myself to my limits. Because i'm still young. And because "it's there". Will i climb the mountain again? Perhaps. But not in the near future. Even looking at steps gives me chills now.
Little Italy, KK City
After lunch at Kinabalu Park and got our certificates, we took a taxi to KK city- we were too tired to wait, plus chances of getting a bus or van were slim at that hour. We paid RM 150 which was a reasonable amount, knowing the driver needs to make his way back to Kinabalu Park from the city. Ride back was about two hours- and i slept half the time. Checked in at Borneo Backpackers, rested, had one of the best baths ever, and then went out looking for dinner.
Little Italy is a cozy diner near Suria Shopping Complex and is rated well in TripAdvisor. It is a popular spot for locals to have Italian cuisine. We went in to a full house that night. We got a place for three, sat, flipped the menu and placed our orders.
My friend's pizza. Tasted average.
My friend's pasta. Didn't really capture my attention.
My dinner- and i forgot what it's called. It's like lasagna but the pasta was rolled and filled with vegetable, mushroom and meat. It was tasty and filling- flavours may be heavy. Good to share. Overall, an okay experience at the eatery. Price was above average.
Back to the Backpackers with jelly legs. I went to bed feeling accomplished!
If i can do it, i believe you can too. Believe in yourself, get well trained, be sure you are physically healthy to climb and set this as your goal too because the feeling is amazing, because the memory is everlasting and because:
"You can never be too early, only too late." - Paths of Glory, Jeffrey Archer.
My KK Journey: Paths of Glory
My KK Journey: 'Terbalik' and the Next Stop
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