My Miri Journey: Get Out
Blessed to have the long weekend during the Raya celebration, i grabbed this opportunity for a getaway. I contemplated between the exploration of Mulu or the adventures in Miri, and as the title has given away, i chose the latter. Mulu felt rather rushy and i thought better to keep that for another time. I have been to Miri two years ago and wrote in My Miri Journey: Makai in Miri (Note: some places may have changed) about my gastronomic experience. This time, while food still has a place in my heart, was more about the outdoor adventures.
I arrived at the airport late at night, immediately welcoming the air of nostalgia as i descended the propeller plane. My friend, who thoughtfully crafted this itinerary for my travel, was already waiting for my arrival.
We began the next day with a visit around the Seahorse Lighthouse. In my previous visit, this lighthouse was closed off due to construction work. Now, i got to see it up-close. It was cloudy but breezy. There was a pier nearby with yachts to envy.
After filling up our ride with petrol and snacks, we headed towards Bekenu, approximately thirty minutes away, for brunch. My friend recommended the Sing Chiong Restaurant. It wasn't too crowded as we were there before noon. Excited to order the popular dish, we went to the pools. For two persons, a small size fish would be sufficient. So the waitress fished one out, brown and black in colour, and weighed it. We agreed on the price as it was RM100/kg.
Satisfied with the Tutu fish dish, we continued on to the first highlight of this adventure: Niah National Park. I studied about the Niah Cave in my history classes back in school and to be reliving the books and stepping on grounds of early civilization was humbling. Naively, i thought that there is only one cave in this Park. I stand corrected, as you'll soon know. Entrance fee was RM 10 per adult.
Upon entry, we went on a boat across the Niah River. Cost was RM1 per person. Although it took less than five minutes, it enticed me with what is to come. It got us to wonder why not build a bridge. I thought the boat ride was an interesting addition, albeit for a short moment. Plus, it helped the local community. Then, it was hike on foot, from concrete terrain to plank walkway. It rained earlier; our pace was slowed down as the ground was wet and slippery. On the bright side, i got to see, not glimpse, the surrounding nature.
The first cave was the Trader Cave. As the name suggested, this part of the cave complex was where trading was held. My friend likened that of a shopping mall in our present time.
Next was the Great Cave. It has to be great to be named 'Great'. I admit: the Great Cave is great. The path led into the mouth of the cave and hereon in this journey was what i called the dark cave. Switch off the flashlight and experience pitch-black. Switch it back on and point your light to the ground. If you are lucky, meet some of the crawlies living on the rock. Those cave crickets looked like alien to me!
Walk towards the light, literally. We continued to the Painted Cave. This secluded part of the cave has a protected wall section of historic paintings. I could barely see it but it was there.
We exited the same way in and stopped by at the local stalls mid-trekking for a drink and memorabilia. The ground was already dry when we left, sooner than expected, with hungry stomach. We drove to Niah Town for a random late lunch.
Tips: bring flashlight especially for the dark cave, gloves if you fear touching bat droppings, and a good pair of walking shoes.
We arrived Tusan Beach, the second highlight, and it was bustling with tourist. Over the years, the Cliff of Tusan (that's how i prefer to call it- it has a cooler feel) has gained fame for its recognizable figure and blue spectacle. However, we stayed until sunset.
Dinner place was special. It is known as smokehouse or to the locals, Rumah Asap. Surely, it was smokey. This dinner place was actually a roofed compound with several stalls side by side, selling roast meat, like a hawker center. Unlike the actual smokehouse to cure meat, we were the meat, dining with the smoke.
After breakfast, we headed to the third highlight: Lambir Hills National Park. This Park claims to probably be the world's most complex and diverse forest ecosystem. It was bright and sunny upon our arrival; i was pumped for the hike. Entrance fee was RM 10 per adult. The routes were well marked according to the colour and choice of destination, making it easy to follow with minimal forks. We set our course: Latak Waterfall, Dinding Waterfall (4.7km from HQ) and Summit (6.3km from HQ). For a leisurely hike or basic hikers, avoid the Dinding Waterfall or Summit route.
The hike started off with an arduous climb. It was steep and undulating. After the junction, it got less strenuous but no less of ups and downs. Along the way, there were bridges and rivers to cross; nothing that would get you entirely wet, and through lush greenery.
Towards the Summit, we had to use roots as holds to climb up. There were ropes for support too. This is what i anticipate in my hikes. Alas, it rained. Taking safety into account, i decided that we turned back when i saw an almost vertical climb. My friend was convinced that past it would be the Summit. But life is precious.
On our way out, fog rolled in and visibility reduced. Dinding Waterfall was thunderous, unlike its tame sight i saw from pictures. The river turned brown and water rose from ankle to thigh level. The current was strong but thankfully, we crossed each river, alive. The danger was real; each a calculated risk.
Almost at the end of the hike, my shoes tore open, exposing the soles. I never thought myself as a resourceful person until that moment. I had to wrap my lace around my foot to keep my shoes as intact as possible. We were also out of water. As soon as we reached the HQ, we had 100 Plus each.
The dinner we had at Ah Soon Cafe was reasonably priced and recommended for Chinese cuisine. No pictures were taken as i was famished. My order recommendation are the glazed pork, butter milk vege and Mongolian chicken.
The next day was cool-down period. My legs still ached but bleeding stopped. Most shops were closed so we went rounds to decide. My friend bought some Kompia, a Fuzhou bread snack. The fillings were tasty and the bread was soft. We settled for Sarawak Laksa and Kolo Mee at the 28 Food Centre.
Just before leaving to the airport, we hung out at Koffee Brick with a friend who runs the cafe. The hipster coffee scene in Miri is growing.
In this getaway, i realized that i went from caves to cliffs to hills in two days- three different outdoor scenes that offered three distinct nature adventures. No doubt, it was a well spent long weekend. Get out, go outdoors. Travel local too because you will learn more about the country you call home, more than you think you do.
I still have Mulu on my list here.
Familiar?
We began the next day with a visit around the Seahorse Lighthouse. In my previous visit, this lighthouse was closed off due to construction work. Now, i got to see it up-close. It was cloudy but breezy. There was a pier nearby with yachts to envy.
Did you know that seahorse is a good luck charm? It also symbolizes power, patience, protection and perspective.
After filling up our ride with petrol and snacks, we headed towards Bekenu, approximately thirty minutes away, for brunch. My friend recommended the Sing Chiong Restaurant. It wasn't too crowded as we were there before noon. Excited to order the popular dish, we went to the pools. For two persons, a small size fish would be sufficient. So the waitress fished one out, brown and black in colour, and weighed it. We agreed on the price as it was RM100/kg.
Steamed was the way this fish was prepared. Locals call it Tutu fish. I found out that this is the marble sleeper/goby or as the Cantonese knows it, Soon Hock. No doubt the freshness! The fish was well cooked, silky and sweet. The sauce had the right balance of salty and spicy. I could eat the fish alone. The other two prawn noodles were forgettable.
Satisfied with the Tutu fish dish, we continued on to the first highlight of this adventure: Niah National Park. I studied about the Niah Cave in my history classes back in school and to be reliving the books and stepping on grounds of early civilization was humbling. Naively, i thought that there is only one cave in this Park. I stand corrected, as you'll soon know. Entrance fee was RM 10 per adult.
I was alerted when i saw this sign.
Upon entry, we went on a boat across the Niah River. Cost was RM1 per person. Although it took less than five minutes, it enticed me with what is to come. It got us to wonder why not build a bridge. I thought the boat ride was an interesting addition, albeit for a short moment. Plus, it helped the local community. Then, it was hike on foot, from concrete terrain to plank walkway. It rained earlier; our pace was slowed down as the ground was wet and slippery. On the bright side, i got to see, not glimpse, the surrounding nature.
On-boarding.
Witness beauty.
Cute snail.
A train of millipedes. Better to leave these two alone.
The first cave was the Trader Cave. As the name suggested, this part of the cave complex was where trading was held. My friend likened that of a shopping mall in our present time.
Rocky.
Great, Great cave, isn't it?
Can you find it?
Tips: bring flashlight especially for the dark cave, gloves if you fear touching bat droppings, and a good pair of walking shoes.
We arrived Tusan Beach, the second highlight, and it was bustling with tourist. Over the years, the Cliff of Tusan (that's how i prefer to call it- it has a cooler feel) has gained fame for its recognizable figure and blue spectacle. However, we stayed until sunset.
Yours truly with the idyllic cliff. To point out, the cliff resembled a horse drinking from the sea.
Coconut ice cream for the mood. Good business!
Sunset by the cliff. I was amused to see benches provided. Good effort, as if watching a show.
To order, pick the meat of your choice and weigh it. Price varies accordingly. We had a slab of pork belly and succulent sausage to replenish ourselves from the day. Also, the local midin was my choice of green on the table here.
The hike started off with an arduous climb. It was steep and undulating. After the junction, it got less strenuous but no less of ups and downs. Along the way, there were bridges and rivers to cross; nothing that would get you entirely wet, and through lush greenery.
Picturesque Latak Waterfall.
River crossing, the real way.
Towards the Summit, we had to use roots as holds to climb up. There were ropes for support too. This is what i anticipate in my hikes. Alas, it rained. Taking safety into account, i decided that we turned back when i saw an almost vertical climb. My friend was convinced that past it would be the Summit. But life is precious.
On our way out, fog rolled in and visibility reduced. Dinding Waterfall was thunderous, unlike its tame sight i saw from pictures. The river turned brown and water rose from ankle to thigh level. The current was strong but thankfully, we crossed each river, alive. The danger was real; each a calculated risk.
Almost at the end of the hike, my shoes tore open, exposing the soles. I never thought myself as a resourceful person until that moment. I had to wrap my lace around my foot to keep my shoes as intact as possible. We were also out of water. As soon as we reached the HQ, we had 100 Plus each.
WARNING!
The following picture contains graphic material. Scroll down quick if you are afraid of blood.
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This was the first time i got leeches on my foot. It was quite unnerving to see them latched on. This experience taught me more about these little creatures. The best way to remove it is to let it feed until full and it will fall off willingly. However, this could take hours. Although i would let it have my blood, i couldn't wait long. So, i asked for salt because i read that salt will help remove it. It worked. Salt helped, but i learned now that it was not the best way. Applying salt (along with pulling it out or using a cigarette) will agitate these creatures. It would, in return, regurgitate and leave its fangs on. Alternatively is to use a blunt end (like fingernails) to gently push them out. I noticed that my bleeding took a long time to clot and i thought it was my blood. Now, i also learned that these creatures release hirudin, an anti-coagulant. Little but complicated creatures, aren't they?
Tips: bring lots of water or snack as the trek is long, wear good shoes for the outdoor.
The next day was cool-down period. My legs still ached but bleeding stopped. Most shops were closed so we went rounds to decide. My friend bought some Kompia, a Fuzhou bread snack. The fillings were tasty and the bread was soft. We settled for Sarawak Laksa and Kolo Mee at the 28 Food Centre.
Just before leaving to the airport, we hung out at Koffee Brick with a friend who runs the cafe. The hipster coffee scene in Miri is growing.
Aromatic Vietnam Coffee and pretty coffee art on the Mocha.
In this getaway, i realized that i went from caves to cliffs to hills in two days- three different outdoor scenes that offered three distinct nature adventures. No doubt, it was a well spent long weekend. Get out, go outdoors. Travel local too because you will learn more about the country you call home, more than you think you do.
I still have Mulu on my list here.
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