RM Journey: Crystal Re-Redang, Terengganu
My lil' brother invited me to go on an island getaway with him. Where? So we looked towards the East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia. He wasn't interested in Pulau Tioman or Pulau Rawa in the southern region, and we contacted several sites in Pulau Perhentian but they were fully booked on our preferred dates. Peak season. Hence, we picked Pulau Redang and yay, Redang Beach Resort had availability and reasonably priced snorkeling packages too.
For our resort, we needed to board a boat from the jetty in Kuala Terengganu. Instead of taking an overnight bus from KL, i decided to drive in the morning a day early to explore this eastern city. Maps estimated a five-hour drive. We took frequent breaks to rest our eyes (and the car) and refill our stomachs (and the car). This added an hour to the estimate. The music-filled drive was smooth as we cruised along the quiet East Coast Expressway (Lebuhraya Pantai Timur), especially after Kuantan.
We exited the highway in the afternoon, turned into Taman Tamadun Islam and continued on to our first stop. Ever since i saw pictures of Masjid Kristal, i wanted to see it. It looked just as stunning in reality. Opened in 2008, the metallic dome still sparkled like a crystal. Other attractions in the Taman Tamadun Islam required fee but it was free to visit this mosque. We parked our car and left on foot to get closer.
It was, however, undergoing renovation work inside and we couldn't enter. We walked its perimeter despite of the heat. There was still an incomplete feeling though- i wanted the angle where i saw those pictures taken. I searched for that little pool and found it not too far on the side. We quickly moved to that spot for our Instagram shots.
After the mosque, on the way to the hotel, we stopped by Keropok Warisan Losong for tea/snack. Keropok is a widely popular (fish) finger snack in Terengganu. Some claimed that you can never find a bad keropok in Terengganu (may be just a matter of preference), and in this fairly large hut/shop, the keropok was tasty. We tried the steamed version but we preferred the fried ones. It was easy to lose count on the number of sticks we each took.
FYI, we ate this again before leaving Kuala Terengganu, back to KL.
The room we stayed for the night in J Suites Hotel was windowless, basic, small but sufficient. It had limited parking lots in its basement and some at the open-air back. Staff was friendly to attend to our request. I liked that the hotel was strategically located near eateries and walkable distance to the jetty. We checked in, rested an hour or so, and then out for dinner.
Just around the corner, The Syrup VS Soda was a hip, shelter-style eatery that left us thoroughly satisfied. It was a good place for friendly social gatherings and family meal times. The eatery closed during prayer time and reopened after.
We explored part of the city to glimpse life here just before dark. Not too bustling but there were many banks in the vicinity.
We had supper in a shop next to the lobby of our hotel. The famous fried chicken was flavourful (the cheesy option looked tempting too). We shared a good Kuay Teow Goreng Basah and had (more) keropok lekor- but we agreed the earlier keropok was better.
Early the next morning, we checked out and walked to the Chinatown of Kuala Terengganu. Breakfast at the local kopitiam, T. Homemade Cafe, was decent. My brother and i had Wan Tan Mee from two separate stalls and we concluded that our selected order was the superior option. Perhaps you can be the judge of that.
We arrived Shahbandar Jetty and looked for our booth. Registration was quick and soon, we were handed tags and boarding passes. The waiting hall was rather crowded with local and international travelers. Upon checking the pass, we had to go through a (fenced) sheltered walkway to the pier. Our boat was there, waiting to bring us to paradise.
We grew excited when we saw our resort after an hour and a half of ride. Clear sky, clear water, crystal. I sensed an incoming, incredibly relaxed timeout. We transferred onto another barge which brought us closer to shore. The warm fine sand welcomed our arrival.
Representatives from various resorts stuck their boards up and offloaded passengers went to them accordingly. The landing point was right in front of our resort so we carried our bags and proceeded to the reception for confirmation. Once newly checked in guests like us settled down, a briefing was provided to inform us of the schedule- snorkeling sessions (morning and afternoon) and meal hours (breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner). As our room was not ready, we hit the buffet lunch. Among the things i remembered from our last stay here was that the food was good. Mostly Asian cuisine though. Lucky its standard maintained.
In fact, i was glad that the resort kept its maintenance in check. Probably even better now. The room was comfortable (even though we didn't spend much time in the room except to sleep and no Wi-Fi), the surrounding was clean and functional, and pathways between trees were romantically lit at night.
We quickly changed into our swimwear and collected our snorkeling gears. The afternoon sessions were snorkeling in the open sea. Corals looked healthy with many fishes. There were many sergeant majors.
Near the resort, we continued to snorkel in the shark bay after tea. There were many baby sharks seen.
We strolled to the nearby resort after dinner, bathing in the moonlight before calling it a night. We woke up early the next morning to catch sunrise. Although it was slightly cloudy, sunrise was pretty.
After breakfast, the morning snorkeling session led us to the Marine Park. A separate fee was charged to visit this Park. I remembered mentions of large fish near the pier last time but i couldn't find one.
Weather picked up during our second open sea snorkeling session. I could feel the tide/current. My brother kept swimming but he seemed to remain at the same spot. I pulled him in onto the boat. We returned our snorkeling gears that night.
I liked that the second night was BBQ dinner- felt like a fitting last night on the island (for now). We had to barbecue them ourselves. Cooked food were also among the spread so you'll enjoy even if you don't fancy BBQ food.
It drizzled the next morning so i cancelled my plan for another sunrise watching. After breakfast, we packed our bags with memories, checked out with a full heart and kept our bags temporarily in the lobby, then we lingered around the beach, reflecting on our previous days, waiting for the boat to take us back to Kuala Terengganu. It was cloudy then. We were truly grateful that our time on the island was filled with sunshine.
We returned to Chinatown and stopped for lunch at Madam Bee's Kitchen. It was a small yet crowded (with people and things) eatery occupying a unit among the heritage buildings. We got a table near the counter. The menu was simple with local fusion (or Peranakan) delights being the highlights.
We hit the highway at three and arrived home by nine. Tired but already missing the transparent water.
Do you know what a thalassophile is? It means a lover of the sea. And i have to admit, part of me is. This Pulau Redang escape kick-started my two other recent seaside adventures- one in the Andaman Sea and the other back at the South China Sea. Needless to say, Pulau Redang remains a recommended island getaway in Malaysia- and thanks to my brother for suggesting this! I'm sure to return to Kuala Terengganu too as i yet sample the famed Nasi Dagang, among others.
** Note that Redang Island closes during the northeast monsoon season, usually from November to March.
Lo and behold, it was the same resort we went to 13 years ago with the family! Same, same.
For our resort, we needed to board a boat from the jetty in Kuala Terengganu. Instead of taking an overnight bus from KL, i decided to drive in the morning a day early to explore this eastern city. Maps estimated a five-hour drive. We took frequent breaks to rest our eyes (and the car) and refill our stomachs (and the car). This added an hour to the estimate. The music-filled drive was smooth as we cruised along the quiet East Coast Expressway (Lebuhraya Pantai Timur), especially after Kuantan.
We exited the highway in the afternoon, turned into Taman Tamadun Islam and continued on to our first stop. Ever since i saw pictures of Masjid Kristal, i wanted to see it. It looked just as stunning in reality. Opened in 2008, the metallic dome still sparkled like a crystal. Other attractions in the Taman Tamadun Islam required fee but it was free to visit this mosque. We parked our car and left on foot to get closer.
Up close.
It was, however, undergoing renovation work inside and we couldn't enter. We walked its perimeter despite of the heat. There was still an incomplete feeling though- i wanted the angle where i saw those pictures taken. I searched for that little pool and found it not too far on the side. We quickly moved to that spot for our Instagram shots.
That Instaworthy angle.
After the mosque, on the way to the hotel, we stopped by Keropok Warisan Losong for tea/snack. Keropok is a widely popular (fish) finger snack in Terengganu. Some claimed that you can never find a bad keropok in Terengganu (may be just a matter of preference), and in this fairly large hut/shop, the keropok was tasty. We tried the steamed version but we preferred the fried ones. It was easy to lose count on the number of sticks we each took.
One by one they go, dipped in chili sauce.
FYI, we ate this again before leaving Kuala Terengganu, back to KL.
The room we stayed for the night in J Suites Hotel was windowless, basic, small but sufficient. It had limited parking lots in its basement and some at the open-air back. Staff was friendly to attend to our request. I liked that the hotel was strategically located near eateries and walkable distance to the jetty. We checked in, rested an hour or so, and then out for dinner.
Just around the corner, The Syrup VS Soda was a hip, shelter-style eatery that left us thoroughly satisfied. It was a good place for friendly social gatherings and family meal times. The eatery closed during prayer time and reopened after.
My Nasi Goreng Kambing, a bestseller there, in front of a sweet, quenching syrup/soda beverage. The fried rice tasted unique, in a good way, and will appeal to those who prefer mutton/lamb.
My brother spoke highly of his order, so i tried some and it was delicious. I tried curry pasta before and this was among the memorable ones.
We explored part of the city to glimpse life here just before dark. Not too bustling but there were many banks in the vicinity.
This metal structure caught my attention from afar. Intrigued, it was a rotating, shelf car park. Each oval column could fit 10 cars if i counted (remembered) correctly. I know a few places in KL that will benefit from this.
Mural art popped up around the city, especially when you continue reading on. This random motorbike added story to Doraemon's Pintu Sesuka Hati.
Relatively imposing.
Depicting cultural diversity.
We had supper in a shop next to the lobby of our hotel. The famous fried chicken was flavourful (the cheesy option looked tempting too). We shared a good Kuay Teow Goreng Basah and had (more) keropok lekor- but we agreed the earlier keropok was better.
Early the next morning, we checked out and walked to the Chinatown of Kuala Terengganu. Breakfast at the local kopitiam, T. Homemade Cafe, was decent. My brother and i had Wan Tan Mee from two separate stalls and we concluded that our selected order was the superior option. Perhaps you can be the judge of that.
Gate into Chinatown, once the largest Chinese settlement in this area.
The kopitam was famous for its soft, golden browned buns, known as Roti Paun. It probably got its name after its 1 pound weight. Plain but perfect to go with the kaya and butter spreads.
Pick(ed) the green plate.
More painted walls here, although some were worn.
An alley tribute to turtle life. There were other themed alleys in this area.
Charming decorative buildings sat along the street. Most shops were still closed in the early morning.
Another mural art stop.
International signpost.
We arrived Shahbandar Jetty and looked for our booth. Registration was quick and soon, we were handed tags and boarding passes. The waiting hall was rather crowded with local and international travelers. Upon checking the pass, we had to go through a (fenced) sheltered walkway to the pier. Our boat was there, waiting to bring us to paradise.
At the pier, looking at the newly opened Draw Bridge while we queued to board the boat. We went under that bridge too.
We grew excited when we saw our resort after an hour and a half of ride. Clear sky, clear water, crystal. I sensed an incoming, incredibly relaxed timeout. We transferred onto another barge which brought us closer to shore. The warm fine sand welcomed our arrival.
Smiles!
Excited faces getting off the barge. Satisfied faces waiting to get on.
Representatives from various resorts stuck their boards up and offloaded passengers went to them accordingly. The landing point was right in front of our resort so we carried our bags and proceeded to the reception for confirmation. Once newly checked in guests like us settled down, a briefing was provided to inform us of the schedule- snorkeling sessions (morning and afternoon) and meal hours (breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner). As our room was not ready, we hit the buffet lunch. Among the things i remembered from our last stay here was that the food was good. Mostly Asian cuisine though. Lucky its standard maintained.
Towards our room one evening.
The building on the right was our diner.
We quickly changed into our swimwear and collected our snorkeling gears. The afternoon sessions were snorkeling in the open sea. Corals looked healthy with many fishes. There were many sergeant majors.
The floating pair of boats that took us to the open sea.
Near the resort, we continued to snorkel in the shark bay after tea. There were many baby sharks seen.
Embracing the shades of blue on white sand.
Shark bay.
We strolled to the nearby resort after dinner, bathing in the moonlight before calling it a night. We woke up early the next morning to catch sunrise. Although it was slightly cloudy, sunrise was pretty.
Night vibes.
Splendid sunrise.
After breakfast, the morning snorkeling session led us to the Marine Park. A separate fee was charged to visit this Park. I remembered mentions of large fish near the pier last time but i couldn't find one.
People in the water.
I liked that the second night was BBQ dinner- felt like a fitting last night on the island (for now). We had to barbecue them ourselves. Cooked food were also among the spread so you'll enjoy even if you don't fancy BBQ food.
It drizzled the next morning so i cancelled my plan for another sunrise watching. After breakfast, we packed our bags with memories, checked out with a full heart and kept our bags temporarily in the lobby, then we lingered around the beach, reflecting on our previous days, waiting for the boat to take us back to Kuala Terengganu. It was cloudy then. We were truly grateful that our time on the island was filled with sunshine.
We returned to Chinatown and stopped for lunch at Madam Bee's Kitchen. It was a small yet crowded (with people and things) eatery occupying a unit among the heritage buildings. We got a table near the counter. The menu was simple with local fusion (or Peranakan) delights being the highlights.
I had the Laksa Terengganu. I believe that every state in Malaysia has its own version of laksa and here tasted special. The spice was aromatic and chunky fish bits to eat. I would enjoy a bigger portion.
Cha cha. Fragrant coconut milk with sweet potatoes and yam.
We hit the highway at three and arrived home by nine. Tired but already missing the transparent water.
I hear the song of the sea.
Do you know what a thalassophile is? It means a lover of the sea. And i have to admit, part of me is. This Pulau Redang escape kick-started my two other recent seaside adventures- one in the Andaman Sea and the other back at the South China Sea. Needless to say, Pulau Redang remains a recommended island getaway in Malaysia- and thanks to my brother for suggesting this! I'm sure to return to Kuala Terengganu too as i yet sample the famed Nasi Dagang, among others.
Mural art in Kampung Cina, pondering. Where to next?
** Note that Redang Island closes during the northeast monsoon season, usually from November to March.
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