My Iraq Journey: The Assignment
Marhaba!
I bought a new luggage for the assignment to fit my month-long supply, obtained the business visa(s), filled up necessary travel and safety documents required by the company such as a proof-of-life form and APT booking. A proof-of-life form is a document with questions only you know the answers to in case you are kidnapped (to truly identify your life). APT is an armored vehicle used for passenger pick-up and drop-off between the camp and outside. It is a lie if i said i wasn't jumpy when i filled such papers.
I flew into Basra International Airport in south of Iraq, it's brown-colored ambiance quickly blend with the surrounding. After immigration (sometimes waiting for visa-on-arrival took hours) and luggage collection, i met with a company representative. From the arrival hall, we had to take a taxi to the airport entrance. The company's security team would be waiting there to bring us to the camp. Some had to wear a bullet-proof vest. Nevertheless, there would be two armed rifles in the two front seats and we always travelled in a convoy. Over time, this still never failed to jolt my alertness whenever i was on the road. I assumed my extra pair of eyes would be good for the lookout so i never slept during transit.
I adapted to the camp lifestyle and accustomed into a routine for seven days a week, as many weeks for my hitch. My mealtimes and venue were predetermined; i would usually arrive at my work desk before 7.30am, sleep about 11pm, and occasionally run around my living quarters in the evening when it was not too hot or too cold, confined inside T-walls. In the months of Summer, temperature rose to 50 degree Celsius. The coldest it went in Winter was 0 degree Celsius, where in an ultra-rare occasion, snow fell in Baghdad, 500km from where I was. The periods of Spring and Autumn were pleasant, when I could go for my aforementioned runs, play futsal and badminton with the temporary residents, and see flowers bloom or dry.
Some days, I looked forward to the meals provided here. My appetite heightened at the sight of hummus (chickpea dip), koshari (mixture of pasta, rice, noodle, beans, chickpea, garnished with onion; an Egyptian street food), kebab and shawarma, falafel, fried onion rings and fried crusted chicken breast. The lraqi Quozi, whole lamb cooked with mixture of nuts, spices, raisin and on a bed of aromatic, colored rice was sumptuous. Grilled whole fish cut, spread in half was another local delicacy served at special events. I indulged in kunafa and baklavas at the dessert section. Other days, I ate only to keep my stomach full.
I flew into Erbil via Iraqi Airways, astonished by the Erbil International Airport. It was modern with KLIA-vibe: high ceiling, bright, metallic structure, albeit smaller. After immigration check and luggage collection, i took a shuttle bus (instead of taxi) to the main exit to meet my company assigned pick-up. Unlike in Basra, it was a normal van. As Erbil is located at the north, among hilly terrain, the weather was generally cooler.
I checked-in at La Roche Hotel, my stay for ten nights. There was security check at the lobby, reminding me of my days in Jakarta. Of course, i had work to do. So, i settled down, organized my makeshift work desk and resumed my tasks. If only i had been less busy. That said, i researched on the places nearby my location and several caught my attention. It was relatively okay to move about in the city, but i was still cautious, never out in the dark and avoided quiet roads. The well-furnished hotel had decent gym, sauna/steam room, relaxing lounge and a restaurant i frequented for meals. Also, because i realized that i had little cash (because i didn’t expect to use them in camp) and most merchants outside do not accept credit card. Luckily, the hotel did.
With the limited cash i had in hand, I ventured. Just by the corner near the hotel sat Ada Garden, a beautiful cottage designed eatery. Tables amidst the green outside, next to cooling fans and lamps for lovely evenings. I didn’t want to sit outside yet so i walked inside, the interior immediately astounded me. Lit chandelier, irregular red/blue wooden furniture, pictures in frames and geometric imprints on its walls, twisting Shakespearean. Upstairs, there were books on unique shelves and sofa. I took a spot next to a window downstairs. A polite waiter took my Chicken Kebab order. It was an eye-opening first night out in the city, in the country. On another evening, I stopped by for kunafa served with booza (sticky stretchy ice cream), basking in the garden ambiance.
In the vicinity was Bamboo Asian Restaurant. Flipping through the menu outside, with Thai, Chinese and Indian elements, i could not resist stepping in. The décor was also a mix of elements with prominent pillars, large pictures of Vietnamese ladies in traditional outfit and straw hat, floating market, Taj Mahal and a temple occupied the wall. My portion of Pineapple Fried Rice and Pad Thai were huge; the Spicy Soup was warm. Although not as authentic as the meals I find back home, they were reliefs from Arabic cuisine.
Not too far, i visited London-feel Cushion Lounge café for pizza and latte; Shawarma Corner for Iraqi shawarma served in diamond bread, the outlet looked like Pizza Hut with its black and red concept; and mushroom-chicken burger at Hardee’s, Carl’s Jr equivalent with the smiling star.
Across the main intersection was Abu Shahab City, a collection of buildings, and the Restaurant was clearly noticeable. It was spacious. Water features beautified this place, inside and out. An ideal place for events, i thought, while i ate my plate of grilled chicken and mixed vegetables on a flatbread.
In the other direction, Abu Afif Sweets, a popular shop catering to the sweet tooth human. I liked the Pistachio Ice Cream on a hot day, but the cakes didn’t really excite me. The variety of baklavas were eye-candy too, sold by weight, so i didn’t buy any then. Instead, i bought a box home at the airport and it was nice level of sweetness. On simpler meals, I had beef burger from Iceland Fast Food.
Enough with food, there was one main attraction of the city i wanted to check (because it is the only accessible one to me then). I visited the Citadel, locally known as the Qelat. Erbil was structured in five ring roads and at the center stood this UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014. The Citadel is claimed to possibly be the oldest continuously occupied human settlement on Earth with evidence of occupation dated to the 5th millennium BC, such that when families were evicted for restoration work, one remained to ensure continuity.
I walked from my hotel. As it was a Friday, most shops along the way were closed. Sometimes, it was, no pun intended, deserted. Several times, i halted and thought if i should visit it on another day. Then again, i may be preoccupied on other days and may not have another chance in the future. I decided to continue.
I passed by locals in their version of kopitiam, playing board games with each other. I didn’t want to stand long to observe- i was already a beacon, informing without saying anything that i was a foreigner and attract attention. I Googled and assumed they were playing Okey board game. I continued walking along the brown-colored lots, some with graffiti, some with plants lining the wide walkway. The heat in June actually felt like Malaysia; it was tolerable throughout my walk.
I arrived at the foot and slowly ascended the oval tell. At the top was a satisfying view, that on clearer days, could see the mountains afar. A car suddenly drove past and began shouting at me. I didn’t understand him and ignored, turning towards the brick Ahmadi Gate to enter. I studied a tourist board indicating the places to see in the Citadel.
Despite the crowd during my visit, i was fascinated. The Interpretation Center and Citadel Visitor Center were under construction. I glimpsed at the Traditional Hammam and Grand Mosque. Later, i viewed memorabilia at the Souvenir Shop. I entered the Erbil Stones and Gems Museum for a minimal fee. What caught my attention there was a quartzite that witnessed the murder of five thousand innocent Kurds by chemical weapon. There was a group of foreigners guided by a security personnel with an earpiece lile those seen in movies. I was not sure if he noticed but i tried to stay near him, or the group, until we parted ways.
Near the Cultural Center i believe was a stage and I could visualize a play, backdropped against the bricks. I was impressed by the view from the Grand Gate. When i Googled Erbil, this image was the first i saw. This incredible sight included a square fitted with fountain, a clock tower and mosque, and a marketplace, Qaysari Bazaar. It was buzzing with people. Here was as far as I would traverse for that day, so I stood at the edge and welcomed the scenery and breeze. I was glad i made the choice to visit it because truly, my perception changed. Never in my mind did i think i would be standing there. I smiled, and then returned to my hotel, keeping in me the memory of Erbil forever.
Iraq, in most part of Mesopotamia, the cradle of civilization. However due to the current situation, not many will want to visit for leisure. For that, shukraan for the opportunity because if not for my work, i would never go and i would never learn and realize the beauty, culture and history, of the nation.
Making my mark.
I bought a new luggage for the assignment to fit my month-long supply, obtained the business visa(s), filled up necessary travel and safety documents required by the company such as a proof-of-life form and APT booking. A proof-of-life form is a document with questions only you know the answers to in case you are kidnapped (to truly identify your life). APT is an armored vehicle used for passenger pick-up and drop-off between the camp and outside. It is a lie if i said i wasn't jumpy when i filled such papers.
A UNESCO site in southern Iraq was the wetland marsh but i am not sure if this was it, or nearby.
Usually this leg of route was not full plane, so i took the window seat often.
The geometric sand view was pretty.
I flew into Basra International Airport in south of Iraq, it's brown-colored ambiance quickly blend with the surrounding. After immigration (sometimes waiting for visa-on-arrival took hours) and luggage collection, i met with a company representative. From the arrival hall, we had to take a taxi to the airport entrance. The company's security team would be waiting there to bring us to the camp. Some had to wear a bullet-proof vest. Nevertheless, there would be two armed rifles in the two front seats and we always travelled in a convoy. Over time, this still never failed to jolt my alertness whenever i was on the road. I assumed my extra pair of eyes would be good for the lookout so i never slept during transit.
Landing or take off.
Sometimes on foot and ladder. Sometimes on extended bridge.
Frequented this for souvenir. Over time, the airport improved.
Check-in counter queue.
Departure hall view.
Between airport and camp.
Backseat safety.
On the road with land rigs in sight.
Bush and sand.
An avenue.
Cabins.
Night view. Night walks.
I enjoyed the sunset and cloud art. Vast natural beauty in the sky.
Cafe feel for us with barista service.
Cozy spot for company events.
Some days, I looked forward to the meals provided here. My appetite heightened at the sight of hummus (chickpea dip), koshari (mixture of pasta, rice, noodle, beans, chickpea, garnished with onion; an Egyptian street food), kebab and shawarma, falafel, fried onion rings and fried crusted chicken breast. The lraqi Quozi, whole lamb cooked with mixture of nuts, spices, raisin and on a bed of aromatic, colored rice was sumptuous. Grilled whole fish cut, spread in half was another local delicacy served at special events. I indulged in kunafa and baklavas at the dessert section. Other days, I ate only to keep my stomach full.
Relatively new barber for hair cut.
Onsite mall. Or grocery shop that sells all.
Lamb richness.
Hummus glory.
Baklava best.
Due to safety reason, i never got to physically explore Basra so i settled with talking to my local colleagues. Ironically, it was because of a safety incident that i got to experience another part of Iraq- up in the north, the Iraqi Kurdistan, a multi-ethnic, multi-religious, autonomous region.
I flew into Erbil via Iraqi Airways, astonished by the Erbil International Airport. It was modern with KLIA-vibe: high ceiling, bright, metallic structure, albeit smaller. After immigration check and luggage collection, i took a shuttle bus (instead of taxi) to the main exit to meet my company assigned pick-up. Unlike in Basra, it was a normal van. As Erbil is located at the north, among hilly terrain, the weather was generally cooler.
Into the plane.
In-flight meal.
Passport control.
Pleasant change of view.
Coffee time.
Exit or entrance of main terminal.
At the shuttle station.
I checked-in at La Roche Hotel, my stay for ten nights. There was security check at the lobby, reminding me of my days in Jakarta. Of course, i had work to do. So, i settled down, organized my makeshift work desk and resumed my tasks. If only i had been less busy. That said, i researched on the places nearby my location and several caught my attention. It was relatively okay to move about in the city, but i was still cautious, never out in the dark and avoided quiet roads. The well-furnished hotel had decent gym, sauna/steam room, relaxing lounge and a restaurant i frequented for meals. Also, because i realized that i had little cash (because i didn’t expect to use them in camp) and most merchants outside do not accept credit card. Luckily, the hotel did.
Great place of stay.
Scanner at the entrance.
Lobby lounge.
Flowered mirror wall to the hotel diner.
Cozy setting for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Room view.
Gym but i barely used.
From my level.
With the limited cash i had in hand, I ventured. Just by the corner near the hotel sat Ada Garden, a beautiful cottage designed eatery. Tables amidst the green outside, next to cooling fans and lamps for lovely evenings. I didn’t want to sit outside yet so i walked inside, the interior immediately astounded me. Lit chandelier, irregular red/blue wooden furniture, pictures in frames and geometric imprints on its walls, twisting Shakespearean. Upstairs, there were books on unique shelves and sofa. I took a spot next to a window downstairs. A polite waiter took my Chicken Kebab order. It was an eye-opening first night out in the city, in the country. On another evening, I stopped by for kunafa served with booza (sticky stretchy ice cream), basking in the garden ambiance.
Amazing decor with crafted ceiling and chandelier.
Stairway.
Books upstairs.
Dining area. That window.
Yum first dinner in the city.
Love the night light there.
Amongst my favourite local desserts!
In the vicinity was Bamboo Asian Restaurant. Flipping through the menu outside, with Thai, Chinese and Indian elements, i could not resist stepping in. The décor was also a mix of elements with prominent pillars, large pictures of Vietnamese ladies in traditional outfit and straw hat, floating market, Taj Mahal and a temple occupied the wall. My portion of Pineapple Fried Rice and Pad Thai were huge; the Spicy Soup was warm. Although not as authentic as the meals I find back home, they were reliefs from Arabic cuisine.
Facade.
Interior.
Anything pineapple works for me although rice was slightly hard.
Spicy sour warms the appetite.
Pad Thai on tongs. I had to pack back because of the huge portion.
Not too far, i visited London-feel Cushion Lounge café for pizza and latte; Shawarma Corner for Iraqi shawarma served in diamond bread, the outlet looked like Pizza Hut with its black and red concept; and mushroom-chicken burger at Hardee’s, Carl’s Jr equivalent with the smiling star.
Found food shops while exploring the area.
Iconic red telephone booth means London.
Pizza for dinner.
Coffee and cushion, chillax?
Nearby building but was empty.
For shawarma.
Like Pizza Hut yeah?
Takeaway.
Mart across the street.
Star is smiling.
Walking to the restaurant.
While waiting.
My main. The waiter kept asking if i wanted more sides but i was full.
Light and water features in the garden seating.
In the other direction, Abu Afif Sweets, a popular shop catering to the sweet tooth human. I liked the Pistachio Ice Cream on a hot day, but the cakes didn’t really excite me. The variety of baklavas were eye-candy too, sold by weight, so i didn’t buy any then. Instead, i bought a box home at the airport and it was nice level of sweetness. On simpler meals, I had beef burger from Iceland Fast Food.
Dessert stop.
Take your pick.
Cooling off yumminess.
Average tasting cakes.
Not sure why Iceland though.
Alternating colour lights.
Enough with food, there was one main attraction of the city i wanted to check (because it is the only accessible one to me then). I visited the Citadel, locally known as the Qelat. Erbil was structured in five ring roads and at the center stood this UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014. The Citadel is claimed to possibly be the oldest continuously occupied human settlement on Earth with evidence of occupation dated to the 5th millennium BC, such that when families were evicted for restoration work, one remained to ensure continuity.
I walked from my hotel. As it was a Friday, most shops along the way were closed. Sometimes, it was, no pun intended, deserted. Several times, i halted and thought if i should visit it on another day. Then again, i may be preoccupied on other days and may not have another chance in the future. I decided to continue.
Mostly along the main road.
Rest day i supposed.
On my way back after the Citadel visit, i entered a shop selling sweets- i was attracted to the colourful sweets.
I passed by locals in their version of kopitiam, playing board games with each other. I didn’t want to stand long to observe- i was already a beacon, informing without saying anything that i was a foreigner and attract attention. I Googled and assumed they were playing Okey board game. I continued walking along the brown-colored lots, some with graffiti, some with plants lining the wide walkway. The heat in June actually felt like Malaysia; it was tolerable throughout my walk.
Street view...
... just me.
Enjoyed the walk like an exercise.
A ministry site.
Roundabout with a statue.
I arrived at the foot and slowly ascended the oval tell. At the top was a satisfying view, that on clearer days, could see the mountains afar. A car suddenly drove past and began shouting at me. I didn’t understand him and ignored, turning towards the brick Ahmadi Gate to enter. I studied a tourist board indicating the places to see in the Citadel.
There.
Walls of the structure.
Climbing up the slope.
The Gate.
Great view with the mountains.
Despite the crowd during my visit, i was fascinated. The Interpretation Center and Citadel Visitor Center were under construction. I glimpsed at the Traditional Hammam and Grand Mosque. Later, i viewed memorabilia at the Souvenir Shop. I entered the Erbil Stones and Gems Museum for a minimal fee. What caught my attention there was a quartzite that witnessed the murder of five thousand innocent Kurds by chemical weapon. There was a group of foreigners guided by a security personnel with an earpiece lile those seen in movies. I was not sure if he noticed but i tried to stay near him, or the group, until we parted ways.
Local flag.
Medieval times reminded me of Provins.
The said chemical weapon.
Mosque on the tell.
Locals around.
Brick and stone architecture.
Still standing...
... although closed off for visitors.
Near the Cultural Center i believe was a stage and I could visualize a play, backdropped against the bricks. I was impressed by the view from the Grand Gate. When i Googled Erbil, this image was the first i saw. This incredible sight included a square fitted with fountain, a clock tower and mosque, and a marketplace, Qaysari Bazaar. It was buzzing with people. Here was as far as I would traverse for that day, so I stood at the edge and welcomed the scenery and breeze. I was glad i made the choice to visit it because truly, my perception changed. Never in my mind did i think i would be standing there. I smiled, and then returned to my hotel, keeping in me the memory of Erbil forever.
Seats perhaps.
Main Gate archway.
The crowd for the view?
Yes!
Can't help to take a selfie too.
Iraq, in most part of Mesopotamia, the cradle of civilization. However due to the current situation, not many will want to visit for leisure. For that, shukraan for the opportunity because if not for my work, i would never go and i would never learn and realize the beauty, culture and history, of the nation.
Comments
Post a Comment