My Turkiye Journey: Ankara Part 1

Merhaba!

I had a Turkish colleague and since then, Turkiye has been on my must-go map because of the way food was described to me. Having said that, Turkiye was a confusing country to me, at least, at the beginning- please hear me out. I didn’t know how large the country is until i arrived at Esenboga Aiport and explored on the weekends. Istanbul is westward, about 7 hours by bus from Ankara, where i set camp, smacked in the centre of the nation. About 8 hours away to the coast is Izmir; unfortunately, timing didn’t allow for me to meet up with him.

At the most well-known site in Ankara yet i only knew about it when i was there.

Saying that the country is a melting pot is another understatement- perhaps a cauldron, of culture. Asia or Europe? You tell me. With neighbouring countries from two continents, some felt familiar yet unique in its own ways. For the unfamiliar, shawarma is similar to doner kebab; pizza is like pide or even lahmacun; tavuk sis is shish tawook. And because of its size, food is often associated to its place of origin, altering the name you thought so. Take kebab for example- doner kebab is not the same as Adana or Urfa Kebab, or Iskender kebab, even durum kebab. If to sum up my Turkish gastronomy adventure on a plate, it is Beyti Kebab.

Why do i say so?

Out on the street, i won’t be able to tell a local obviously. The older generation wear that typical Turkish look i had in mind, but as for the younger ones, they are fashionable and good looking, blending Middle Eastern and European features. I was also surprised to learn that it was an almost-all Muslim population (government data says 99%), which explained the number of mosques around (and the number of mosques i visited). The weather was cool as i was there in August/September. It was dry, chilly in the morning and sunny during the day that made walking on foot terribly enjoyable. Cigarette and cats?

Contrasting architecture throughout the city.

It was confusing to me because I didn’t know this much about the country before. English wasn’t widely spoken so communication with locals was minimal or through a translation app. Despite its mixes, the country is well rooted in history, its culture richly steeped, and so, after this journey, i am clarified.

Let’s begin where it begins: in the capital of the country.

I stayed at Movenpick Ankara. The hotel was small but sufficient- the room was clean, modern but didn’t scream business; served a decent breakfast spread; a small gym i didn’t have time to use and an indoor pool that stretched only a few strokes; a hammam. Location was brilliant and i definitely recommend for this purpose: across the pedestrian bridge was the Sogutozu metro station- convenient to use and accepted credit cards, across the road was the Armada Mall- good shopping and choices of eateries, and about 15 minutes’ walk to the Ankara Intercity Bus Terminal- making it an ideal middle ground.

Looks like a promotional photograph of the hotel but in reality, the clear sky and dusk lit atmosphere captivated my attention.

Perhaps another promotional-looking photograph in the diner, Teona, as if overlooking snowy mountains (can't help manifesting).

Quite a staple with breads and pastries.

Honeycomb, salad and cheese bar. A local colleague told me a story of how Malaysian breakfast buffet lacked the cheese/yogurt selection, comparing us to having rice as our first meal of the day.

Sweet snacks.

There was also an egg station. So one morning, i requested for menemen, Turkish scrambled eggs with tomatoes. Light yet fresh with strong tomato flavour. Oh, certainly pleasing if you are a tomato-based food lover because the cuisine has tomato at its front.

The pool in the basement.

My room.

Behind that curtain was the view of this curvy, reflective building.

Across that bridge and head underground was the Sogutozu metro station. Good enough to bring me around the city and it felt safe.

Vibe of the nearby Armada Mall- couldn't tell how many times i walked up and down this street. Lined with alfresco style, good for people watching restaurants but mostly international (and pricier) food options.

Stopped by Kahve Dunyasi for a scoop of dondurma, Turkish sticky ice cream- seriously i had to control my intake of ice cream in Turkiye because they were good!

At the food court, my favourite was Tantuny, which sells tantuni. This messy griddle tempted me for seconds.

A wrap with meat filling infused with cotton oil. I never expected to thoroughly enjoy the flavours packed inside this unassuming local dish. There was bread option but i preferred it with the wrap.

Another stall i often ordered from is Sayrem which sells pasta along with sides. I couldn't tell what made the pasta so yellow but this satisfied for quick tummy filling.

I first learned of Mado when i was in Erbil.

Fresh from the Olympics fever, the viral pose of the silver medalist prompted me to try shooting at the nearby Ankara Silah Poligonu. I was shaking holding the pistol.

This gave me BTS vibe.

On my first weekend, i explored Ankara Kalesi. The castle itself was somewhat uninteresting for me but the panoramic view at the top made up for it. Once a fortification in the 8^th century BC, now stood the main gate, clock tower, dungeon tower and eastern castle. The hike up was more interesting, passing by local shops and the anticipation of the castle itself.

Still early when i started my day so the shops were just opening.

Quite an upslope- notice the view of the city in the background.

Walking around, noticeably more textile shops in this area.

 

Not too crowded during the time of my visit. Touristy as it may be, can get souvenirs here.

Facade of one of its buildings- bricks with white walls and brown panels were common sight. There were several museums around the area but i didn't enter.

Turkish samovar.

Castle.

To myself.

There must be something here. Otherwise, i wouldn't have taken this photo.

I was trying to find for this angle.

Randomly spotted this mosque across a road behind an artificial rock/water formation.

Introduced to the common design of the mosques.

Not too far from the castle is the Haci Bayram-I Veli Cami. This mosque, built during the Ottoman Empire, is another touristic place in Ankara- it was crowded on the day i visited. Next to this mosque is the ruins of the Temple of Augustus.

Side of the mosque. The design was different compared to the other mosques i visited in the country.

In ruins but closed off for conservation.

Found it.

From the metro stop to the above cami, i saw the Victory Monument and other beautiful buildings.

The equestrian Ataturk.

A soldier.

Bank.

Republic Museum, aka The Second Parliament Building.

Ankara Palas.

There were a lot of clock towers now that i come to think about it.

I didn't want to visit the neighbourhood of old Hamamonu but i'm glad i did. Maneuvered through the narrow streets with Ottoman architecture, historic houses, i liked it here- it felt peaceful, with a handful of shops, and i read that it gets lively come evening with music/live performances.

 

Again, walking.

 

The rusty gates and the font of the name on entry, exuded a different, imaginative-me air.

At its heart is a clock tower.

Initially, i thought to try the hammam here but reviews had been average. It is one of the oldest and most popular in the city.

Not as many souvenirs to bring home though.

Public tap, an iconic landmark.

 

Sculptures around.

Had lunch at Bacchus because it was bustling.

Chicken cooked in clay pot.

Then, walked over for dessert.

Went for their favourite helvasi, classic made with semolina flour.

Of course, can't be in Turkiye without a Turkish coffee. Thick and strong, almost earthy.

Prepared hot by a stand using a cezve.

 

More mosques.

 When i Googled about the city, Anitkabir is the top-rated place to see. It is a mausoleum complex, the resting place of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk- founder and the first President of the Turkish Republic. The site was vast with little shelter that my skin definitely went a shade, or two, darker at the end of the day.

A few ways to start, and i came through here.

Grand corridor surrounding the square.

 

Exhibits along the way. The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations was also located in the area but the queue was incredibly long and I skipped it.

The mausoleum.

Sarcophagus inside the Hall of Honour.

The Lions' Road, lined with lion statues and trees to another entry/exit point.

I need more info on this.

The change of guards ceremony.

I asked for recommendations from my colleague and got ahead of her when she recommended this. After Anitkabir, i went to Dondurmaci Serdar Usta for homemade, Turkish ice cream.

 

Street photographs that look different from home.

The corner lot with vibrant colored furniture.

Two scoops here.

Had Karadeniz Pide for dinner. The boat shaped bread was rather common.

My favourite local restaurant is Meshur Gulcimen Aspava Emek. The food was delicious and the service was friendly. Although they speak minimal English and being a solo customer, i was treated well. It was also here that i summed up my Turkish cuisine experience: tomato-rich, yogurt-laden.

A bit of walking distance from the hotel but i noticed there was always a queue. I gathered my courage one evening and stepped in. The reception took numbers down but since i was alone, he brought me aside and later showed me to a table.

The eatery was hectic. Waiters moved about bringing dishes or cutleries; customers ushered in and exiting after a full meal.

After i ordered my main dish, came first were plates and bowls of sides. Reminded me of Korean banchan. This dining experience is known as aspava. Intending to ensure customers have a hearty meal and leave full, sometimes i felt bad for not finishing. Usually, fries and salad were ok for me but the cacik (yogurt drink) and cig kofte weren't my favourite.

Had my share of adana kebab and it was authentic. The meat was grilled tender yet juicy with flavour. I didn't mind more. Definitely recommended!

Stay tuned for more culinary experiences in Ankara!

There was the best, and now, this bottled beverage was personally my oddest, the most bizarre drink i had. I only took a sip and it was enough for me to put it away for good, kept as far away as possible, locked in memory.