The Wag of Kuching, Sarawak

There are many things that come to mind when one speaks about Sarawak. The natural wonders. The diverse culture. The colourful people. The unique food. Studying geography or the map of Malaysia, Sarawak is located in the East Malaysia- Borneo island looks much like a dog, and the Kuching city sits at its tail. Known as the Land of the Hornbill, Sarawak has much to explore, experience and discover. I am truly grateful to have taken the opportunity to visit Kuching- where cats (and many more) take pride!

My trip to Kuching stretched over six awesome days. Thanks to my friends who willingly took time off their holidays to bring me in and around Kuching, sharing and explaining, and recommending what Kuching has to offer. Coming from Kuala Lumpur, there are undoubtedly some differences between here and there. The sun rises and sets at least an hour earlier, which means I had to get used to when it is bright by 7am and when it is dark about 7pm. There are many roundabouts- and I'm talking about large radius ones. The roads are wider with many 4-wheel drives. The trip has been an eye opener and surely it broadened my horizon, looking beyond learning, and here I am to share my experience with you.

Day 1: Tomato Noodle, Jong's Crocodile Farm, Nightlight at the Waterfront, Homemade Siew Mai 

Departing from KL's LCCT nearly noon, I arrived at the Kuching International Airport and completed the necessary immigration procedure before meeting my friend. The burger I had for breakfast digested fully when I breathed the Kuching air, and I was already craving for local food. My friend brought me to try the Tomato Noodles, and to say the least, I enjoyed the sweet-and-sourish taste of its gravy poured over crispy fried noodle.

Tomato Noodle. At 10th Mile market, top floor.

Lunch was more than satisfying. It was so good it told me that this would be another great food adventure. Fueling my stomach, my first visit was the Jong's Crocodile Farm- one of the major tourist attractions. I have been to crocodile farms before and the recent one I went to was rather disappointing. I thought they were almost all the same- crocodiles, that I didn't put my expectations high on this first visit. Fortunately, I was wrong because this farm has an interesting show (one in the morning and another at 3pm) - the jumping crocodiles. My suggestion would be for the show to have some commentaries. Sarawakian adult fee is RM 10.00- if possible, try to get a local person to buy for you.

Jumping crocodile. Its 'lunch' is hung on ropes above them. Prepare yourself for a loud snapping sound that entails.

The crocodile and me. Walking literally above them was scary imagining the 'if's like if it swings its powerful tail to break the bridge or fence.

The gallery displays some interesting materials. This is a skull of a crocodile. Note that some of the photographs displayed are disturbing (no photograph is allowed). There are pictures of human fallen victims to vicious crocodile attacks in the past.

The farm is home to other creatures too. In the water are Arapaima fish. You can feed them with breads provided at the corners of the feeding area- that if you can find the fish first. Some other attractions are sun bears, otters, iguanas- to name a few.

Posing with a crocodile statue at the entrance.

Done with the farm, I checked-in at my friend's home- my stay for 4 nights. Then, it was dinner at BDC.

Sea cucumber soup to start dinner.

Dinner at BDC was okay. 

Taken from BDC, notice the lighted hornbill at the far centre? It perches on a roundabout and obvious from a distance.

Taking a 5 with the cat statue in Kuching. Don't be surprised to see many 'cats' around the city. Since it was still Raya celebration when I was there, this cat was dressed with Raya accessories.

Welcome!

The lights around Kuching Waterfront were amazing. Seen above is the Dewan Undangan Negeri (DUN) building across the river, Kuching Utara.

After strolling under the night lights, we stopped by this hawker stall which sells homemade siew mai and soy bean at the open air market.

The homemade siew mai were delicious and the stall has been selling for many years. We went back after supper and prepared for the exciting next day.

Day 2: Wind Cave, Fairy Cave, Tasik Biru, Taman Sahabat, The Spring, Sarawak Laksa, Kueh Cap, Belacan Midin, Kolo Mee

Woke up as early as 7 am to get ready for the day. For breakfast, I had the famous Sarawak Laksa and Kueh Cap. Kueh Cap is mostly 'spare parts' of the pig but since I don't favour eating them, mine came with slices of pork meat instead. It looks like 'bak kut teh' but diluted, less black and not much herb taste. It felt like the black soy sauce in soup. The Sarawak Laksa, surely, is one of the favourites. Different to those I find in KL, the Laksa here has a blend of sweetness in its spiciness. It has prawns and serves with sliced scrambled eggs. I will miss the Sarawak Laksa, surely. The kopitiam we had is located at the junction of 4 1/2 Mile.

Kueh Cap in front of Iced Teh C and Iced Coffee C.

Sarawak Laksa next to the Kueh Cap. Mouth watering yet?

After the fulfilling breakfast, two other friends joined us. Then there were four. One of the scheduled activities for today was caving. Somehow, I enjoy going to caves like those in China and Australia, or even Batu Caves in Selangor. Today held two different caves at near Bau about half an hour from Kuching city. The first was the Wind Cave. Entrance fee per student rate is RM 1.50. Remember to bring your own torchlight to this cave as it is dark once you trail inside the cave. Like all caves, mind your steps and your head, and care not to touch the natural formations!

I like this picture of the bat at the ceiling of the Wind Cave. There are bats, and bat droppings, in this cave. So, be wary.

Cave rock formations seen inside the cave. Shine with your torchlight and be amazed.

The many bats having their nap on the ceiling.

There are reading boards to provide you with information about the cave's formation and life.

This is a large bat hole at the ceiling of the cave. We wondered if this is the bats' public toilet.

Greeting at the entrance of the Wind Cave.

Entrance of the Fairy Cave. The cave got its name from the stories where this cave is said to be magical. Entrance is free for this cave, which surprised me because despite that this is more tiring, I prefer this cave. Once you reach the top, and cave further in, the sense of accomplishment is overwhelming, topped with its beautiful scenery. 

One of the wonders inside the cave. It looks like the pinnacles.

Me against the magnificent background. Don't ask me what the light ring next to me is. Period.

The popular shot of the skylight of Fairy Cave.

Caving.

A rock formation that looks like a man.

I shall call this formation behind me the Dragon's Throat.

And I shall call this the Snake's Head. Notice how water drips from its mouth to the ground below. You can find these two at the viewing platform of the cave.

Caving is surely a unique experience and I have grown to like more than I thought I would. I will not forget the beauty of the cave standing at the viewing platform.

After the two caves, we were hungry. But not until we visited the Tasik Biru, or Blue Lake, did we have our lunch. Tasik Biru got its name from the colour of the lake- blue. It is because of the arsenic element found abundant which caused this lake to turn blue. Interesting.

Me and the Tasik Biru. Don't attempt to drink or use the water in the lake.

On the way back to Kuching, we stopped by one of the restaurant and had lunch. Seen above is another famous, the Midin, stir fried with belacan or shrimp paste. Midin looks like the 'paku choy' and tastes like 'kang kung'.

After lunch, we headed back to rest awhile and cleaned ourselves. Then, it was the next stop, Taman Sahabat, where it is a spot dedicated to the relationship between China and Sarawak. A figure of the Admiral Cheng Ho can be seen at the park. The park is simplistically beautiful, especially during evening with walkers and joggers or just visitors strolling in the park. The Chinese house built over the pond becomes magical with the amber sky.

Me taking 5 with the Admiral statue.

Against the magnificent backdrop of the house, pond and sunset.

My friend and I at the main entrance. In the evening, there are students learning at the porch of the house. When I was there, they were practicing the Chinese yo-yo. I like the community spirit.

After Taman Sahabat, finally, my first ever Kolo Mee in Kuching. It comes in two different flavour: white or red. The one I had in this picture is White, and mixed with white vinegar. No wonder why my friends always talk about Kolo Mee- it's good! Seen in this picture too are the sate, both chicken in lighter brown and pork in dark colour.

To quench thirst, presenting to you the White Lady drink. Inside are fruit pieces. What intrigued me was the name itself. White. Lady.

This is where you can find it all. The hawker stall is bustling with people. Hui Sing Hawker Centre.

Before heading back to end the long day, here I am in the Spring, one of the newer shopping complexes in Kuching.

Day 3: Temple at Muara Tebas, Cultural Village, Seafood at Buntal, Sunday Market


One thing I like about traveling is the need to push myself to wake up early, rise and shine for the coming day no matter how tired I am from the day before. I was awake when the sun was just about to rise and meet with my friend's relatives to join them for today's adventure. Driving nearly an hour to Muara Tebas, after breakfast, we visited the Chinese temple facing the port. It was a wet morning at the temple but that did not deter me to see and their relatives to perform their ritual duties.

Climbing up a flight of stairs to reach the temple. On festive days like the Chinese New Year, the temple will be crowded with people wanting to fulfill their prayers. 

At the entrance to inside the temple is a gold dragon figure.

Driving further in another direction after the temple, we arrived at the next, popular tourist spot- the Cultural Village. It charges at Rm 60.00 per adult so remember to bring Student Card, for university students, to get better rate. Trust me, you save a lot.Most people who went to Kuching definitely paid a visit to this place and the feedback has been good. To say the least, I agree with them. Despite the slight drizzle while touring around the Village, I thoroughly enjoyed my time reading, looking and participating in the sites. You can buy a 'passport' and get it stamped at the counter of every station- a pretty interesting concept to make sure you have seen it all.

At the entrance of the Cultural Village or Kampung Budaya.

Walking over a bridge used by one of the indigenous people of Sarawak. Imagine if it is higher, with no strings attached.

Try your hands on some of the traditional musical instruments of the people. Find the 'do re mi fa so la ti' and dive into the music. One of the melody of a local music has been installed in my head and whenever I hear that tune, I will remember this place.

In the longhouse.

One of the indigenous people of Sarawak's home.

The 'staircase' to enter the house is challenging as the steps are designed where only the front of your foot and fit in if you are climbing forwardly. Those who is afraid of heights might have some trouble getting into the house. I just like pushing myself to the limit.

What you must not miss coming to the Cultural Village is the performance at the theater. The theater now is equipped with cushioned seats and air-conditioning system for your comfort. The stage is set for performers to present traditional dances or activity. There are two shows each day. One in the morning at 11.30am and another in the afternoon. Seen above is one of the performances that blew me away. The performer at the top of the bamboo (I think) is spun by his mates at the bottom. He was moving so fast I thought he might just fly off and fall to the ground. Nothing of that sort happened when I was there. Applause ensued.

The performance by two Penan people truly captured my attention. They were charismatic on stage and exuded great sense of humour to entertain the crowd and I can say for many that our eyes were fixated on them. Even their entrance would shake you. Using blowpipes as weapons, they demonstrated by aiming at balloons. Accuracy. Technique. And when they called a volunteer up to try, it was another fun moment- not only to shoot at the balloons but how they conducted the show. Well done to the team!

If you are to visit the Cultural Village, I would recommend you to visit the homes of the people and read about them around the Village prior to the show. Save the best for last, and watching the world class show, your money is worth the price and you will leave the Cultural Village with a smile wiped across your face. Across the Cultural Village is the Damai beach and since I was already there, how can one resist the beach? From afar, I could see a metallic sculpture of a bird. Walking closer to it, and towards the beach, I knew what it was.

It's a metal hornbill. The pride of Sarawak. Even if it almost done, I guess, it looks amazing, like Langkawi's eagle except only smaller.

By the beach. Tide was low. Very low. That the beach was set farther in.

Being at the beach makes time fly by in seconds. Stomach called for late lunch and what better to have than seafood at such a place? Traveling on the way back to Kuching, we stopped at one of the restaurants in Buntal. Try to avoid going there during in-between regular meal times. The restaurants there usually open for dinner and some for lunch. Rarity to those that serves late lunch. We were lucky there was one, which was no less than finger-licking good too!

Fresh coconut for seafood, tick. Fried oyster with egg or 'oh chian'- pizza shaped with oysters at its centre. Seafood, spicy. Not seen here is crabs prepared in egg- undeniably, I am licking my fingers now already. And at the right is another style of cooking Midin, which I prefer more than the belacan style- the red wine Midin. The lunch was scrumptious and seafood, at the right place at the right time, proves to be one of the best!

Traveled back to Kuching and rested. Since we were still full from lunch, we decided to head to the Sunday Market first. Funny, I thought Sunday Market is a market which opens only on Sundays, as its name suggests. It isn't. But I was close. The Sunday Market opens during weekends only and there are many things you can find at the market. Animals like pet fish, hamsters, birds. Plants like orchids, cactus. Souvenir like key chains, fridge magnets. Clothes. Food. Toys. It's all in one. It's similar to the night market or pasar malam here in KL, and like it too, the Sunday Market offers much variety. Ultimately, if you're a bargainer, beat your best here and get the best deals! Some, though, might not be the owners selling so it might be more challenging.

The Sunday market.

Flowers on sale.

Another long day that was nothing short of awesomeness, it was then time to sleep- for the next day was anticipated to bring much more ache to the feet.

Day 4: Flavoured/Original You Tiao, Bako National Park

The days had been awesome so far, and I was in no mood of letting it slow down or stop. Breakfast at Lee Coffee Shop would be enough to fuel us until lunch. I had another round of Kolo Mee and a special, flavoured You Tiao. The momentum continued to rise when it was time to head to the Bako National Park.

The You Tiao made with 'kaya' and butter inside. There are many other flavours such as sausage, ham or take it original. The You Tiao is interestingly good.

A close up shot of Kolo Mee.

A good food hawker centre which offers great variety. The Kolo Mee and You Tiao shops are found in this kopitiam.

The Bako journey began.

Upon reaching the terminal and completed registration, we boarded a speedboat, for about 15 minutes, to the national park. The fee was RM 47 per boat one way and RM 5 per adult. Welcoming us to the national park is a sign that reads so. We arrived early, low tide, and the only way in was through the beach. Prepare yourself to get your feet wet as you will walk in, to the office. We checked in to a room of four (hostel) which charges RM 40 per room. It was a good deal.

The national park definitely offers much wonders to discover and see for yourself. We kept our bags and began our trails. There are many trails around the park, some ranging to more than 5 km. Since we were pressed for time, we selected only the nearer ones, but not necessarily the easier ones.

There are estimated distance and time to trail a trail. It looks short on board, both distance and time, but once you start to trek, you will feel it. Make sure to bring proper shoes to walk or climb. Bring water bottles- absolutely necessary as it can be humid and the forest might sap you dry. Remember to re-hydrate yourself in such situation. We trekked to Teluk Paku, the nearest bay and we were then already out of water. I forgot to bring one- that's why I emphasize the importance of one here. We rented a boat to take us to the what-is-most-talked-about of Bako at RM 35 per way. Only when we were there we realized that renting the boat was the right decision. The wonders can be viewed much up-close only with a boat.

Can you find the sea horse?

Bako will never be complete if one has not seen the Sea Stack here. Natural beauty.

The boatman also provided some explanations and told us where and when to look up for the wonders. Money satisfied. Body satisfied. After the Sea Stack, we were brought to the shore and trekked back from here. Climbing, or hiking up a cliff, the view from above was breathtaking!

Looking back at this picture, I feel scared for myself. It is high above the ground. But then, I was just too amazed at the crystal waters and rock formations. I will remember this scenery. The eyes are the best camera.

Not only were the sand and sea blew me away. At the top of the cliff too were interesting, unique formations that look like rock mushrooms. Hold tight if you are one who is afraid of heights.

While waiting for the sun to set, which did not happened as it was cloudy, we looked to the end of the bay and noticed the formation that is shaped like a creature with its mouth open. Bako lets your imagination run like the breeze.

At the hostel we stayed, ready to welcome your neighbours. The Proboscis monkeys and the boar on heels, the wild boars. You can find for snakes too, if you are lucky.

Over at the office, there is a canteen that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The food might be pricey, but it's a tourist spot and we need to eat. When I was there, Bako was filled with many foreign, almost mostly Western tourists. I urge Malaysians or locals, if you have the opportunity, come to visit Bako because at the end of the day, you will be spell-bounded by the magic of Bako- I felt its post-Bako feel. I sometimes need to remind myself that I am in Malaysia. Then again, throughout the trip, I need to remind myself of that- because it had been all amazing!

There is a night trail, at RM 10 per person, depending on the weather condition. I wanted to try a night trail but unfortunately, when I was there, it was raining. Remember to bring your torchlight if night trail is what you plan for. Because of the rain, and the chilly atmosphere, night came early, sleep was soon, and we were up before the alarm rang.

Day 5: View of Mount Santubong, Cat Museum, Sarawak Museum, Art Museum, Nature Museum, Kuching at night, Taka and Everrise

Waking up with a slight and temporary sore on the legs, I went to stroll the morning of Bako. Sun was up early, monkeys and the wild boars accompanied the tranquil morning. Waves breaking at the coast, still high tide.

A painting from nature. Taking nothing but memories.

Walking along the beach, watching the blanket of mist across Mount Santubong. Being there felt heavenly.

While wanting to trek to the starting point, we stumbled upon this magnificent rays of sunlight, through the canopy of the park. You can see the beam in front of your eyes.

I was defintely under the spell of Bako because when I was back at Kuching, I could not shake the thought of Bako away. The surrounding is so serene. The trekking at the trails are tiring but exciting. The scenery is captivating. The rangers are friendly. Just being there makes you fell really on a holiday. Forget the phone, forget your work, and let the natural wonders, the monkeys and the boars to entertain you!

The boat back to the Terminal. Drove then to Kuching Utara side to visit the Cat Museum in the DBKU. The Cat Museum charges no entrance fee but if you are to bring camera or video camera, there are special rates. Otherwise, you keep it at the side or the counter. The Cat Museum is good, especially if you are a cat lover. Everything inside there is about cats! From the myths and legends of cats, the famous people who had cats as pets, cat tattoos, the cat movies, comics, cartoons. Be sure to follow the paws on the floor to follow the sequence and see it all.

The entrance in is through the mouth!

After lunch, I went to the museums around Kuching. I found that the museums are really good. It is not huge that you can get lost inside and not small enough for you to feel less informed. The building of the museums are old architecture. For today, I went to three: the Sarawak Museum, the Art Museum and the Nature Museum. I liked the Sarawak Museum, especially if you can see the remains of a whale. The Art Museum is colourful, and I liked the fighting cock figures. No camera is allowed inside the museums, and since I followed the rule, no photographs of inside will be shown here.

Behind me is the Sarawak Museum. Visitors to Kuching should make visiting the museums part of their itinerary. Otherwise, he or she is not a fan of such things.

This crushed ice stall is interesting. I thought to order a 'Lady Gaga' or have myself a 'Beyonce'. But since there wasn't stock for those, I had to settle on this thirst quenching 'Angry Bird' drink.

At 101 Premier hawker centre, I craved to eat Tomato Noodles again. I think among the others, I will miss this the most because of its distinctive taste. Different yet delicious! This food centre offers great variety of food and I would recommend this place to you if you are out of options to eat. You can try the fried durian too!

At almost every corner, you can see Taka bakery. I can't find this in KL. As for supermarket, the name Everrise will ring a bell in the minds of the Kuching people.

Kuching at night, at the popular cat statue. It's near Grand Margarita Hotel. And McD.

My first night in Waterfront, lower. My last night at Waterfront, upper. When this metal sculpture is lit, it comes to live!

Already numb to tiredness, I had to prepare for the final day in Kuching.

Day 6: 3 Layer Tea, Carpenter Street, Indian Street, Old Post Office, Textile Museum, Chinese History Museum, SCR, Waterfront during daytime, Main Bazaar, Kek Lapis

The final day finally arrived, and my friend and I went over to see what have I not tasted, or tried, or experienced. We nodded at almost all we listed, and the remaining were what we headed for in the last few hours of my stay in Kuching.

Parked near the Indian Street and strolled early in the morning, most of the shops were still closed. We walked over to the Carpenter Street, which to me felt much like Chinatown, and likewise, the stalls had not opened. We decided to have breakfast first until the shops open its door.

The 3 Layer Tea! My friend asked me to try one layer at a time and feel the difference. Then, I mixed them up!

Probably my last breakfast in Kuching, I decided to have Sarawak Laksa. I wanted to really remember its taste!

At the Indian Street, when stalls and shops are opening.

The Carpenter Street on the left and behind me is the Old Post Office. Opposite here is the Textile Museum. Going there when it just opened for the day, I was given a scare of its figures inside. The 'ladies' looked so real I thought I wasn't alone, at first. The shop in the Textile Museum sells at reasonable prices, and can bargain. All things inside are handmade.

The Old Courthouse, now housed a cafeteria, a museum and a tour agency.

Walking across the road from the Main Bazaar, it is the Chinese History Museum. Free entrance. Photographs on permission.

This museum is hi-tech. I was wow-ed by the technology used in the museum, especially at the Chinese musical instruments sections.

Being one of them. At each different Chinese, there is a button you can press to hear a conversation in the dialect. Interesting, right?

The Waterfront in the day.

Be sure to notice the 12 plates of Heritage Walk at the Waterfront. Beginning from 1 to the Kuching today at 12, one can learn the history of Kuching, Sarawak in brief, in minutes. I liked the concept of it.

Main Bazaar is where I bought all my souvenirs. There are many things to buy there. Shirt, key chains, post cards, handicraft and of course, the most looking forward to, the Sarawak Layered Cake or Kek Lapis. With the various colours and flavours, the layer cake is a must buy because for the same length and size, the price here can be almost double or triple.

Before heading back to KL, I decided to try the SCR. Not Sarawak, but Singapore Chicken Rice. It is like the Chicken Rice Shop in KL but I wanted to try because there are as many outlets as there are to Taka- even more.

Flying back to Kuala Lumpur from Kuching, I experienced a new flight experience- a turbulence. But that's another story.

My trip to Kuching was awesome to the max. What captivated and amazed me the most are their natural wonders. No doubt, the tourism advertisement about Sarawak on these wonders are spot on. Next, comes their food. I enjoyed blending in with the people and tasting their laksa, midin, seafood, pepper, tomato to name a few. My only regret now is not buying enough layer cake and the Sarawak Laksa packets. If I had stayed any longer, I would be fatter. Other than that, I have no regrets at all! 

Again, my thanks to my friends for bring me around and sharing the experience together. I hope this piece of recount can be useful for you for your next travel to Kuching. Kuching, tick. Whether I want to go back there someday in the future for another retreat or getaway, tick. Did I have a good time, cross. I had a wonderful time!

Cheers to the wag of the cats!