My Cambodian Journey: Saddened by History
While visiting Cambodia usually means visiting the Angkor Wat, it is in Siem Reap, and in Phnom Penh, the must visit places are the Genocide Museum or Toul Seng Museum and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields, shorter known as the Killing Fields. That is why i'm dedicating one part of my journey to these two memorable places. I was much anticipating my second day because of the histories that lie behind these two places; one is a torture and interrogating ground, a place once a school turned into a prison site, and the other are the graves of mass killing execution done almost so systematically. Before i delve further in on these two places, there were other things on this day that are worth experiencing, visiting and remembering, partly food.
Grilled Pork Chop with Rice
At a local roadside shop for breakfast for 7000 Riel. With the help of the map, we made on foot to the Genocide Museum from the hostel and found this shop very inviting, especially when i saw one of the ladies were grilling pork chops over the stove, so we thought to give it a try. We also tried their local coffee and it tasted like Ipoh White Coffee when mixed with the milk. The pork chop was well grilled and well marinated, different than in Malaysia. My only complain was that there should have been more pieces of the pork chop. Served with rice and vegetables like pickles. After a satisfying breakfast, we continued walking.
Genocide Museum, Toul Seng Museum
Entrance was USD 2. The rundown-look of the school amplified the eerie feeling upon entering. Knowing that this was the exact spot where the locals were once interrogated, tortured and forced to confess during the Khmer Rouge period led by Pol Pot, i cannot but feel for the pain inflicted on them. There were four blocks, some of which are kept as it was. Some photographs displayed in the holding rooms and in the torture chambers were rather disheartening (warning: photos included may be disturbing to some). The wooden and brick cells where the people were locked in are still available today- and walking between the narrow walkway of the cells, some parts darker, was creepy. Looking into the small cell, i cannot imagine how one can live in tight space.
There was a video presentation at 10 am and it was worth watching after visiting the museum- it helped to refresh what i'd seen and read, or to revisit those i'd missed. One of the governing story was of about a lovely couple who was torn apart during the Khmer Rouge period, an extremely touching love story that as the narration continued, i could see the story played out like a movie in my mind. We could see how the 'ghost town' became of Phnom Penh during their occupation and a recollection of one of the survivors, a painter and how his paintings were validated. A rather long video about one hour but if you have the time, sit through and watch. After here, we took a 'tuk tuk' to the Russian Market for 5000 Riel.
Russian Market
Being inside this market was like being inside a maze; the shops and stalls were like walls of the labyrinth. This market was a good place to get souvenir or shopping. I've learned that when you see something you like, bargain and buy it. Because i thought other shops would sell but i didn't see the same notebook i wanted else where- not even in the Siem Reap markets. Some parts you'll find lots of wood sculptures, clothes and textiles, bags, and even machinery tools. Across the market, we stopped by the 'M Export' shop to find for branded goods like Levi's and Calvin Klein. They were really cheap but just make sure you get the original but rejected ones instead of the copy- i can't really teach you how to differentiate because i myself can't differentiate. I didn't buy any then.
With our stomachs calling for food, the near middle section of the market housed a market food court. We had the local Fried Noodles which its noodles looked like the 'loh shi fan' (5000 Riel). It tasted really good but rather oily- i'm not sure if the 'gravy' the cook added over the noodles after frying was oil. Then to quench our thirst, we tried the fresh Avocado Shake for 7000 Riel.
Choeung Ek Killing Fields
A return 'tuk tuk' ride from the Russian Market to the Killing Fields and back to our hostel cost USD 11. The 'tuk tuk' driver said he would wait for two hours- and i thought two hours would be long. I was there slightly more than two hours. At the entrance, we could see a tall stupa built to commemorate and keep the remains (skulls, bones and old victims' clothes) of the mass execution victims after the grave sites had been excavated. I particularly liked the audio tour provided at the entrance which comes together with the entrance fee. We could choose from various languages and at each stop, we pressed the number on our device and listened to the related history. Like the Genocide Museum, being on the spots where the execution once took place was eerie; a ghastly feel walking between the excavated grave sites. One in particularly struck me as just being inhumane, one that i cringed throughout the playing of the audio. It was the tree that stood next to a grave, the tree that was used to kill babies! Holding them by their legs and smashing the heads against the tree is just unbearable to listen, or read. Why did they do so? According to a slogan, 'Cleaning grasses, shall dig its entire root off'. With an objective to wipe out educated people and build a community of peasants, babies, ladies and men were killed. Another slogan sounded like 'Better to kill an innocent by mistake then to spare an enemy by mistake'.
There was a video presentation at the museum. Shorter than the one in the Genocide Museum, it was good to watch this after completing the audio tour so you can refresh what you've seen and read at the information boards inside. After here, we headed back to our hostel to rest.
Romdeng Restaurant
Well rated in the TripAdvisor, this restaurant was one of our nice dinner places. With the cause to support locals and prepare them into the culinary world, food sold here may be pricier but it lived to its taste. May be overrated, but as i said, it was also for a good cause. The ambiance of this two storey restaurant is nice, with a swimming pool outside. We didn't make reservations but were lucky to have a table. The restaurant was crowded. Since it was like a school, you can differentiate the students and the teachers with the labels on the shirt.
Pink Elephant Pizza Restaurant, Riverfront
Initially wanted to try the Happy Herb Pizza, it was closed so we went to the neighbouring Pink Elephant Pizza Restaurant to try their pizza with an extra boost of ingredient: a 'herb' that makes you happy. We ordered their Pizza House with little 'happy' so as to avoid being addicted to that added ingredient. We could barely feel it or feel happier then, but surely the pizza tasted good.
Before getting on a 'tuk tuk' back to our hostel, we saw this shop selling all sorts of local snacks- and the spiders were there, along with crickets! But since i am not used to such exotic food, although i wanted to try tarantulas badly, i preferred to try them at proper restaurants instead. At least now i've seen them.
It is highly recommended that you follow the order of visit as per this post, visit first the Genocide Museum then the Killing Fields. Then you'll see the flow of order- interrogation and holding, then the execution. These places are not to be missed whenever visiting Phnom Penh.
My Cambodian Journey: The Beginning
My Cambodian Journey: A Charming City
My Cambodian Journey: Saddened by History
My Cambodian Journey: A Scenic Ride?
My Cambodian Journey: Bow to the Magnificent Angkor Wat and More
My Cambodian Journey: Sunset at Tonle Sap Lake
My Cambodian Journey: The Next Stop
Me in front of one of the main buildings in the Genocide Museum.
Grilled Pork Chop with Rice
At a local roadside shop for breakfast for 7000 Riel. With the help of the map, we made on foot to the Genocide Museum from the hostel and found this shop very inviting, especially when i saw one of the ladies were grilling pork chops over the stove, so we thought to give it a try. We also tried their local coffee and it tasted like Ipoh White Coffee when mixed with the milk. The pork chop was well grilled and well marinated, different than in Malaysia. My only complain was that there should have been more pieces of the pork chop. Served with rice and vegetables like pickles. After a satisfying breakfast, we continued walking.
My hearty breakfast of pork chop with rice, and a nice cuppa coffee.
The good thing about walking is that you can see the place on foot slowly (i know this doesn't make much sense but i know you get what i mean).
Genocide Museum, Toul Seng Museum
Entrance was USD 2. The rundown-look of the school amplified the eerie feeling upon entering. Knowing that this was the exact spot where the locals were once interrogated, tortured and forced to confess during the Khmer Rouge period led by Pol Pot, i cannot but feel for the pain inflicted on them. There were four blocks, some of which are kept as it was. Some photographs displayed in the holding rooms and in the torture chambers were rather disheartening (warning: photos included may be disturbing to some). The wooden and brick cells where the people were locked in are still available today- and walking between the narrow walkway of the cells, some parts darker, was creepy. Looking into the small cell, i cannot imagine how one can live in tight space.
View taken from the upper grounds of the buildings; the eerie feeling brought about by the greyish yellow wall- and knowing the history.
One of the holding rooms.
Close up photo of the picture hung in another room.
This gallows were used to make prisoners 'unconscious' then dipped their heads into a jar of smelly water. The victims would then quickly regain consciousness and interrogation continued.
There was a video presentation at 10 am and it was worth watching after visiting the museum- it helped to refresh what i'd seen and read, or to revisit those i'd missed. One of the governing story was of about a lovely couple who was torn apart during the Khmer Rouge period, an extremely touching love story that as the narration continued, i could see the story played out like a movie in my mind. We could see how the 'ghost town' became of Phnom Penh during their occupation and a recollection of one of the survivors, a painter and how his paintings were validated. A rather long video about one hour but if you have the time, sit through and watch. After here, we took a 'tuk tuk' to the Russian Market for 5000 Riel.
Photographs of faces of the people.
Wooden cells.
Brick cells. This is the cell of one of the survivors.
Some illustrations of torture methods.
A rather graphic portrayal by the painter.
Russian Market
Being inside this market was like being inside a maze; the shops and stalls were like walls of the labyrinth. This market was a good place to get souvenir or shopping. I've learned that when you see something you like, bargain and buy it. Because i thought other shops would sell but i didn't see the same notebook i wanted else where- not even in the Siem Reap markets. Some parts you'll find lots of wood sculptures, clothes and textiles, bags, and even machinery tools. Across the market, we stopped by the 'M Export' shop to find for branded goods like Levi's and Calvin Klein. They were really cheap but just make sure you get the original but rejected ones instead of the copy- i can't really teach you how to differentiate because i myself can't differentiate. I didn't buy any then.
With our stomachs calling for food, the near middle section of the market housed a market food court. We had the local Fried Noodles which its noodles looked like the 'loh shi fan' (5000 Riel). It tasted really good but rather oily- i'm not sure if the 'gravy' the cook added over the noodles after frying was oil. Then to quench our thirst, we tried the fresh Avocado Shake for 7000 Riel.
Fried noodles.
Making our avocado shake. It was tasty and thirst quenching!
Choeung Ek Killing Fields
A return 'tuk tuk' ride from the Russian Market to the Killing Fields and back to our hostel cost USD 11. The 'tuk tuk' driver said he would wait for two hours- and i thought two hours would be long. I was there slightly more than two hours. At the entrance, we could see a tall stupa built to commemorate and keep the remains (skulls, bones and old victims' clothes) of the mass execution victims after the grave sites had been excavated. I particularly liked the audio tour provided at the entrance which comes together with the entrance fee. We could choose from various languages and at each stop, we pressed the number on our device and listened to the related history. Like the Genocide Museum, being on the spots where the execution once took place was eerie; a ghastly feel walking between the excavated grave sites. One in particularly struck me as just being inhumane, one that i cringed throughout the playing of the audio. It was the tree that stood next to a grave, the tree that was used to kill babies! Holding them by their legs and smashing the heads against the tree is just unbearable to listen, or read. Why did they do so? According to a slogan, 'Cleaning grasses, shall dig its entire root off'. With an objective to wipe out educated people and build a community of peasants, babies, ladies and men were killed. Another slogan sounded like 'Better to kill an innocent by mistake then to spare an enemy by mistake'.
Behind me is the stupa.
The audio tour device.
Skulls inside the stupa.
One of the many grave sites.
The tree.
Some of the bones retrieved during excavation.
There was a video presentation at the museum. Shorter than the one in the Genocide Museum, it was good to watch this after completing the audio tour so you can refresh what you've seen and read at the information boards inside. After here, we headed back to our hostel to rest.
A common sight to see from the 'tuk tuk' on our way back to hostel- overloaded lorries of workers.
Romdeng Restaurant
Well rated in the TripAdvisor, this restaurant was one of our nice dinner places. With the cause to support locals and prepare them into the culinary world, food sold here may be pricier but it lived to its taste. May be overrated, but as i said, it was also for a good cause. The ambiance of this two storey restaurant is nice, with a swimming pool outside. We didn't make reservations but were lucky to have a table. The restaurant was crowded. Since it was like a school, you can differentiate the students and the teachers with the labels on the shirt.
A wonderful ambiance.
Looking in the kitchen.
The menu.
The two cocktails we ordered. I am holding the 'Mango and Lime daiquiri' recommended by the waiter. The cocktail cost USD 4.50.
Their local famous Fish Amok for USD 5.75. Tasted like the 'Otak-otak' in Malaysia, this dish was delicious with strong coconut flavour.
Chicken with Lotus Seed and Lotus Root Salad, half portioned. Since in the menu it is mentioned that food portion may be large, we decided to take half of this so we could try other dishes as well. Half the price too. However, this dish tasted ordinary to us.
My main objective of visiting this restaurant was to try their deep fried tarantulas. Unfortunately, they were out of stock. We thought to come back the next day but they are closed on Sunday. Perhaps, next time?
Pink Elephant Pizza Restaurant, Riverfront
Initially wanted to try the Happy Herb Pizza, it was closed so we went to the neighbouring Pink Elephant Pizza Restaurant to try their pizza with an extra boost of ingredient: a 'herb' that makes you happy. We ordered their Pizza House with little 'happy' so as to avoid being addicted to that added ingredient. We could barely feel it or feel happier then, but surely the pizza tasted good.
Tasty little pizza; a small for USD 4.
Before getting on a 'tuk tuk' back to our hostel, we saw this shop selling all sorts of local snacks- and the spiders were there, along with crickets! But since i am not used to such exotic food, although i wanted to try tarantulas badly, i preferred to try them at proper restaurants instead. At least now i've seen them.
It is highly recommended that you follow the order of visit as per this post, visit first the Genocide Museum then the Killing Fields. Then you'll see the flow of order- interrogation and holding, then the execution. These places are not to be missed whenever visiting Phnom Penh.
My Cambodian Journey: The Beginning
My Cambodian Journey: A Charming City
My Cambodian Journey: Saddened by History
My Cambodian Journey: A Scenic Ride?
My Cambodian Journey: Bow to the Magnificent Angkor Wat and More
My Cambodian Journey: Sunset at Tonle Sap Lake
My Cambodian Journey: The Next Stop
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