My Laos Journey: The Capital Vientiane

A friend i made in Vang Vieng told me this: you have everything planned. He was referring to me signing up for the outdoor tours and purchasing my bus ticket to Vientiane a day before, and having booked a bed in Vientiane in advance. I reasoned that i wanted a spot for zipline or kayak, that the tickets were selling out pretty fast, and so i could ensure the place i'd be staying be decent or safe. But i still considered myself as being almost impromptu in this travel, otherwise you'd see me booked the outdoor tour, bus ticket and accommodation months ahead. Strictly following a rigid itinerary, cross out.

Unlike me, he was traveling across the country and borders. He had a motorcycle and the flexibility to travel as and when desired. Some nights, he pitched the tent he carried around. When i listened to his recollection of adventures, i could not help but to compare mine with his, and felt inferior. Then i realized: we all have our own journey to travel.

We all have our own story to share. And this is mine.

Unique in its own way.

I left Vang Vieng a little tanned. My kayak comrade was also on the same bus (60k kip per person) with me to Vientiane. Have i mentioned yet that in such travel, it was easy to meet friends from the previous places? I met my roommate in Luang Prabang at the same hostel in Vang Vieng unplanned, and met for dinner in Vientiane with the friend who told me that i had everything planned. Irony.

The bus departed an hour later than scheduled. It was not as winding as the Luang Prabang-Vang Vieng Route 13, and took about four hours including a stop for toilet or snack. We arrived in the city in the afternoon. The bus dropped us by the side of a road in the city, near many backpackers and restaurants, but i couldn't pinpoint my location in my mediocre printed map. Thankfully, my friend had GPS so i knew where we were and how to get to my hostel. May be it isn't a bad idea to get a SIM card for data? It wasn't too far of a walk. He stayed in a different hostel so we bade goodbye.

I stayed in KhawHoom Hostel for two nights, effectively only a day and a half to explore as compared to the previous two places. There was a cafe downstairs. Each bed was separated by a plank and curtain for privacy. Decent but a bit of a walk from the happening scene.

Then, i started walking and walking. And accustomed myself to the smoke i escaped for a few days. Vientiane is a city, the capital of Laos, and where i was headed to stood rows of bank buildings and ministry offices. Not as busy in the likes of KL or Jakarta, but busy enough to bring me back to the city-life.

While walking, i noticed a small park with this fountain statue.

I bumped into my kayak/bus mate at Patuxai. Dubbed as the tropical Arc de Triomphe, and weirdly written on the board at the site a 'monster of concrete', i thought it should be given more credit. It lacked the grandeur of the Parisian icon but was no less unique. I asked my friend if it was worthy to climb up (3k kip per person) and he said yes. It was fairly cheap anyway.

Me and the landmark.

Under the arc design.

Through the looking window.

Then, i continued walking and walking. And noticed the shimmering gold in the distance. Pha That Luang was my next destination and another iconic landmark of the city. As i went closer, passing through a square, it continued to reflect the evening sun. I paid 10k kip (per person) to go into the compound but there was nothing much to see inside. This sacred, gold-covered stupa is also regarded as the national symbol of Laos.

Glory in the distance.

Glory in the near.

The surrounding buildings of the stupa also had beautiful architecture like this.

It was a weekday and i saw this stall outside a school. There were many customers, students and working adults, and when i told him i wanted one, he said 'sold out'. I grinned at the last customer.

While walking back, i stopped by for a picture at the Presidential Palace.

And while exploring nearby for dinner, i saw this under-construction, prettily lit site.

I went to Lao Kitchen for dinner and ordered Mok Pa, Lao steamed fish wrapped in banana leaves. It was one of my anticipated dishes to try because it reminded me of the local otak-otak and fish amok in Cambodia.

It didn't come with the leaves but still tasted good. The flavours were well infused. My only complaint was i wanted more.

The next morning, i left to the Morning Market at Talat Sao, which i realized then was more of an electronic/textile market and wasn't exactly for 'morning'. Most stalls were still closed at 8am. It should have been called a 'day' market because when i returned almost noon, the stalls were opened.

But the market wasn't my intention, more like a pit stop, as i wanted to go to the central bus station behind. I read that to go to Buddha Park, it was convenient using the Bus #14. I asked the lady at the counter and she pointed me to the waiting area beside. I waited and waited.

Central bus station.

There was no Bus #14.

I gave myself almost another thirty minutes (i read that the bus leaves the station every twenty minutes or so, which meant i would have seen at least two buses with the number). Then i decided to try the corner around the nearby local stalls.
I saw the Bus #14.

The ride took about 45 minutes (6k kip per person per way), stopping over at the Friendship Bridge before the Buddha Park entrance. This Park (5k kip per person) was a collection of statues with some interesting figures.

One of the things to see/do at the Park, squeezing through narrow channels to...

... reach the top for a view.

These were inside. I was alone and i admit, it was eerie at some point.

The most intriguing statue for me at the Park.

This was a close second.

Random lotus shot at the Park.

One of the more popular statues known as the circle of life. The Park was actually smaller than i imagined and a good hour would be sufficient. There were ongoing works at the side so in the future, it would be bigger (and subsequently more time to spend here).

I returned to the central bus station and made my way to the COPE Visitor Center. It was free admission, stood for Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, and located inside a ministry compound. I highly recommend to visit this center as it was educational and eye-opening, highlighting one of the remnants of war.

Replica of the cluster bombies, Unexploded Ordnance (UXO). Did you know that Laos is the most heavily bombed country per capita in history? Some of these bombies still lie on ground.

Prosthetic limbs on display. Do make time to watch some of the videos; perhaps, bring a tissue.

The Night Market wasn't as interesting as the one in Luang Prabang. Mostly clothes, i spent more time at the riverfront by the Mekong River. Then, i met up with my motorcycle friend for dinner at one of the food trucks. This was planned, thanks to social network sites.

The sunset over the river, with Thailand in sight.

When the sun goes down, the sweat comes out. Public aerobic in session along the riverfront.

In addition to the Night Market, i went to the Food Night Market near my hostel. This had, as implied, street and snack food. This was more interesting for me.

I saw this at the Luang Prabang morning market and another time here. So i tried. It was rice covered with egg, then grilled. Different, i'd say. Different.

My flight back to KL was early the next morning. The week-long journey through the charming Luang Prabang, the gorgeous Vang Vieng and the capital Vientiane, tasting local cuisine and meeting friendly, genuinely friendly, people, was rewarding and definitely refined myself as a person. I believe that is what travel does to a person.

Khob chay with love,
Laos.

My Laos Journey: The Charming Luang Prabang
My Laos Journey: The Gorgeous Vang Vieng
My Laos Journey: The Capital Vientiane