My Laos Journey: The Gorgeous Vang Vieng

The ride to Vang Vieng was, to put politely, memorable. There are several options to go to Vang Vieng and i narrowed down to two: VIP bus which i learned isn't for Very-Important-Person with mixed review of its comfort, or minivan which i realized could sometimes overcrowd but quicker. I opted for the latter (130k kip per person) by my hostel in Luang Prabang. I read that both promises The-Lord-of-the-Rings-like view.

However, i felt more like being in the set of Narnia: The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. The hilly landscape reminded me of the scene where animals rush down. The Witch is after one of the brothers, tips over and a rhinoceros charge.

Now back to the ride, yes, memorable. I, with a heavy heart to leave Luang Prabang, entered the minivan with a few empty seats remaining and thought, "may be it won't be full". Soon, the driver rounded the corner and picked up more passengers. Already filled in between bags, the minivan stopped in front of another hotel and a bunch of people wanted to come in. It was full and they had to wait for another minivan. Relieved, fourteen people including the driver and me, were on our way to Vang Vieng.

Although the view was scenic, it was winding and elevated with several sharp bends on gravel road. To amplify the nerves, it was misty on the day of my travel. Sometimes, the driver honked. I was sure everyone in the minivan was awake. Then as we went uphill, there was another minivan that had a flat tire. Our driver pulled over, placed a rock he found by the side of the road as a stopper for our minivan, and helped changed the tire. It wasn't long before we moved on.

The ride took about five hours including a stop for lunch. As always venturing into a new place, i was anxious of where we will be disembarking and how to get to my hostel. I saw that the bus station was in the other end of town, which really was the end of the street, opposite to my hostel. Surprisingly, as the minivan halted, i noticed that the building in front of me was familiar, in name and in shape.

We stopped right in front of my hostel, my stay for the next three nights: Vang Vieng Rock Backpacker Hostel. I grabbed my bag and checked-in. The hostel had a youthful vibe. The social area had a pool table, a foosball and benches with pillows in front of a bar. Location was good. On the downside, the room i got was literally a rooftop covered with zinc and fourteen beds. I am OK with dorms but too many people in a room can be quite noisy and risky. And the door squeaked.

I still had not shook off the stardust Luang Prabang sprinkled on me. And the ride helped little. So i convinced myself to give Vang Vieng a chance, that i may like, or love, it as much as Luang Prabang. I pulled out my map, this time of Vang Vieng, and began exploring the surrounding.

I grinned when i saw the gorgeous pieces of rock.

Puts a smile on my face.

Vang Vieng was infamously known as a popular drinking hole with tubing being the hot stuff. It involved floating on a donut-like tube down the river, hopping from bar to bar that once crowded its bank. Several fatalities have been recorded due to this and enforcement stepped in. Today, the place was more controlled and not just for drinkers or party goers. It has flourished to attract other people, like me, to this place. The outdoors.

Wow.

There were many tour services lining the street. I signed up with the Riverside Tour and Green Discovery Tour for my next two days. I wanted to rent a bicycle to explore the outside of main street but held back as i would discover through the tours then and some places are further, and alone.

I had my meals twice at Green Restaurant because of the view, decent food and reasonable price.

Peanut butter chicken. Steamed rice. Papaya shake. View.

Another sunset spot.

Since it was paired with the Blue Lagoon, i went zip-lining first with the Riverside Tour. I joined a group of South Korean tourists. We left the office and arrived at the starting point. There, we were fitted with the harness and instructions. Then, we began our hike up.

Plains and hills.

Me and the view. 

Zip-lining could actually go fast. Brakes were manual rubbers to press on. Once, i went so fast, it scared me and i wanted to break. Lucky, i did not burn my hand.

Another one for show.

My guide pulled himself because he was light and couldn't reach the platform. Happened to me once too. If memory served me right, we went to seven platforms before we completed the circuit.

At the Blue Lagoon, i took a leap of faith. I watched as others did and ensured its depth was safe. I climbed the tree and jumped. The moment right before i splashed into the water, the moment i felt the g force, i could hear myself shout. I only visited Blue Lagoon 1 and it was crowded with people. Nothing extraordinary about the place. I heard that Blue Lagoons 2 and 3 are better.

Once we returned to town, i was hungry. I had my late lunch at Viman Restaurant by a German-Thai chef. It was a cozy place and after he cooked, he sat down and chat with me.

I usually go for local food during my travel but this was an exception after reading its reviews. The Schnitzel i had was yummy. I wanted more.

Apart from tour services, these stalls also lined the streets. They sell pancake like our roti canai, crepe and milkshakes.

The next day was another outdoorsy adventure with Green Discovery Tour. I woke up and saw clouds hovering the sky, and i crossed my fingers for good weather. I was joined by two other solo travelers and a French group. We left the office and arrived at the starting point. There, we were briefed on the adventure of the day. First, we went to the Elephant Cave (Tham Sang).

It got its name from this. Can you spot it?

Just below was a shrine.

Then we traversed to a hut that would also be our lunch spot. We went to the Loup Cave (Tham Loup) then the Snail Cave (Tham Hoi).

In the dark with only our torchlights on. At one point, i suggested we try switching off to see total darkness. We did.

Working with my flash. Sometimes we had to squeeze narrow paths, sometimes it was wide.

And sometimes we see white, sparkly formations.

After lunch, it was time to get wet. This is one of the activities i recommend because it is uncommon: cave tubing. Remember earlier i mentioned about tubing or riding on a tube? Similar but in a cave, the Water Cave, and you pull yourself on rope (or backstroke) to move instead of float down the river.

I left my camera outside so this is the best you can see.

I did not bring a change of clothes so i remained wet from the waist down. The next activity was a walk through the Hmong village.

A jutting rock stood out.

Children.

To end our day was the 9 km kayaking down the Nam Song.

One of the best ways to soak (get it?) in the beauty along the river (and i didn't do tubing) was with a kayak. A good workout. My guide mentioned in the start to be careful of rapids. In my mind, rapids were rough and turbulent. In reality, i guess due to the dry season, they were gentle bumps. At the end of the day, it was a day well spent in ideal weather.

A friend was recommended by another local friend about this dinner place. So we decided to give it a try. I don't know what it's called but they were stalls near the old runway. I had grilled pork and sausage, more fat than protein to recover from the day.

You'll notice lights and smoke.

I would recommend Vang Vieng for two reasons: drinking and outdoor activity. If you are not a fan of either, you would probably enjoy less. While at some point i'd say the place reminded me of Ipoh with the limestone hills and surrounding greenery, or the caves i recently visited in Miri, they shouldn't be compared. Each has its own specialty in its own way. The people, the weather, the food, the language are some examples that contribute to differentiating one from another. And in that, you learn.

Where else more fitting to drink than in Vang Vieng? I just had to try a bottle. And drank it on the street.

The ride to Vientiane was less dramatic. But there is always a story to tell.

No, it's not via a hot air balloon (although that would be cool!).

 
My Laos Journey: The Charming Luang Prabang
My Laos Journey: The Gorgeous Vang Vieng
My Laos Journey: The Capital Vientiane