My Vietnam Journey: Pretty Hoi An

Bitten by the travel bug, i found myself surfing the Internet, looking for good deals and interesting places. Perhaps, places i have not even heard of. Like Da Nang. There must be a reason for direct Air Asia flights from KL to Da Nang, so i did some digging. Da Nang is claimed to be the third biggest city of Vietnam, and when i dug deeper, more pictures surfaced that caught my attention. Excitedly, i searched for suitable dates and reasonable rates, and bought a return flight ticket for the next week. Indeed, another impromptu solo travel with flexible itinerary and checklist.

Postcard perfect, or in the current era, Insta-worthy?
To her, such a sight is common, but i was fascinated.

A picture that stood out to me was that of Hoi An, a quaint town not far from Da Nang. I immediately knew i needed to spend a night there. In fact, i routed my journey to Hoi An first before exploring Da Nang, and decidedly spent two nights there. At the time of my travel, RM 1 was calculated to approximate 5,570 VND (Vietnamese dong). Upon arrival at the modern Da Nang International Airport, i was welcomed by a lady holding my name card from the Hoi An Express. It was a convenient and professional mode of transportation. I got into a van that drove us through the cityscape and out into the countryside.

An hour later, i arrived at the doorstep of Tribee Cotu, my selected place of stay for two nights. Tucked in a street not too far from the happening part of town, it was the organized social activities that made this hostel a fun place to be and the journey more memorable. It had a few sister hostels nearby. On my first night, i joined the free spring rolls class. Free knowledge. Free experience. Free dinner- who wouldn't want it? I did learn something new- the way of eating spring rolls, the central Vietnam way. First, we made the roll that is to be fried, consisting of vegetable and meat in rice paper. Then, to eat, we wrapped the fried roll inside the fresh roll and dipped in spicy sauce. This is said to follow the yin yang of food, a balance of heat and cold. I easily could devour ten rolls that night! I lost count.

Ingredients for the rolls.

Fried spring rolls, ready to be eaten.

On the second night, i joined the free street food tour. It was free to join the crowd move from one stop to another, but whenever we wanted to sample the food, we had to pay. Good deal. The guide handed a list with 11 street food to try in Hoi An/Vietnam but we only had time to accomplish five. I crosschecked against my list and updated accordingly.

We had a different variation of spring roll- using pork skewer as the main protein and peanut dipping sauce. It was yummy appetizer. I tried the local bao (we have pau in Malaysia and i wanted to know the difference). Unlike the loose meat inside, the one i had was balled up like a dumpling filling. Before we ended the night, we sat by the roadside, literally on low stools next to incoming/outgoing cars and bikes (i can't help to make sure no vehicle suddenly swerves our way or plan an escape route), for fruit smoothies. I had the sapota fruit- it is a tropical fruit and coming from the tropical region, i was dumbfounded to learn that it is the chiku!

Refreshing roadside fruit smoothies, mingling with the hostelmates.

Now back to my arrival in Hoi An. After checking in, i quickly sought recommendation for custom tailors. I read that Hoi An is popular for making cheap suits that can be ready in two days. Perfect! I decided to go to Bebe Tailor 2 and friendly Tuyet attended to me. She was attentive; i was always sweating due to the heat (read more about it in my next post) when i went to the shop and she would be ready with a wet tissue and chilled water bottle. She described each material for different price and provided advise to color and design. I agreed to one that suited my budget. She took measurements while another lady recorded the numbers. She informed me to return the next day for fitting. Indeed, i returned for two fittings to ensure i was happy with the product. They were helpful in making sure i looked smart.

With the petite lady.

It was confusing to me when i read online about the old town fee, that there is a ticket which included five sites of choice. However, i learned that for walking around the old town, there was no need to pay. The tickets were to be bought to visit the sites, they come in fives, and purchased at dedicated booths.

Walked past Phap Bao temple on the way to the old town.

My first meal of the journey was at the famed Morning Glory Restaurant and what better than to taste the food unique to Hoi An- Cao Lau.

Fresh bowl of noodles. The sauce was tasty; noodles texture slightly harder than yellow noodles. I realized to expect lots of greens in the servings.

It felt surreal walking along the lanes of the old town. The yellow-painted walls, brown-tiled roofs, and colourful lanterns, like straight out from those pictures i saw. The first word that came to mind: pretty. Because it really was. This old town truly deserved the recognition from UNESCO and held multiple travel awards. Couples could be seen photographing wedding shots by the river, along the streets or toying a lantern.

Easy walking, basking in the culture and colours.

Corners.

Clear sky.

How about visiting on trishaws? I prefer walking.

Pretty sight.

I crossed the bridge to the other side of town and as night fell, the sight became more alive- when the lanterns were lit! Fittingly, the Lantern Market, also a Night Market, became busy with visitors and locals. It was crowded. Some were persistent to get customers to ride their sampans or buy paper lanterns to release on the river.

Bridge over river to the other side of town.

Night Market started when it wasn't dark yet.


Sun's down, lights' up.

Lanterns on sale.

Sampan with lanterns.

I woke up early the next morning to join the My Son sunrise tour. The word 'sunrise' was used loosely as it was not for sunrise viewing at the ancient site but to be there ahead of the later tour bus loads. I was glad i chose this even if it cost me some sleep. It took an hour to reach the entrance from my hostel (fee 150k VND). My Son, pronounced Me-Sen and not my son (my child), is a collection of groups of ancient Cham sanctuary structures also recognized by UNESCO. The place was properly maintained with good roads leading to the sites, using buggy, and pathway for walking.

Ancient site.

Sitting at an entrance.

It was good to have the place all to ourselves.


Interesting Cham sculptures.

Easy walking, from one Group to another, with different design built from different centuries.

One of the better restored site.

Weirdly jutting out.

One should not compare to Angkor Park in Cambodia; although similar in influence, each has its own character and story. My Son is definitely smaller in size, grandeur and tourism popularity, but i'm inclined to visit such ancient sites and i found my visit there equally enjoyable.

I was starving when i returned to Hoi An. I went to White Rose Restaurant for, well, white rose. Frankly, that was a glamorized name for local dumpling. Similar to Malaysia's gao zhi, this restaurant supplies white roses around town. There were only two items on the menu: white rose and wantons. I ordered the white roses.

"Roses for me?"

The ladies behind the white roses.

I bought the tickets and selected my five sites of choice, all within walking distance: Cantonese Assembly Hall, Japanese Covered Bridge, Tan Ky House, Fujian Assembly Hall and Quan Cong Temple.

Dragon and carp statue at entrance to the Cantonese Assembly Hall.

With the iconic Japanese Covered Bridge- and i just had to cross it.

Fujian Assembly Hall gate.

Small but big. All about perspective.

Feeling hungry again, i walked my way to the Banh Mi Phuong shop, possibly the most famous banh mi shop since Anthony Bourdain claimed it to have the best in Vietnam in his 'No Reservations' show. I had the Mixed Bread.

Not much queue when i started; i noticed a line after i ordered.

Preparing my banh mi. Yum!

Not too far, i had another dish and i'd say this was my favourite dish of Hoi An: Mi Quang from Mr Hai Restaurant. I went after lunch hour so it was rather deserted. I didn't expect much when the bowl arrived but when i had my first bite, it was delicious!

Looked simple but packed a punch. The gravy was sweet and savoury (amazingly so), truly whet the appetite.

Then, i explored the area around Central Market. It was not too busy during the late afternoon.

I received my suit, delivered to my hostel on the second night. The next morning, after pancake breakfast at the hostel, i returned to the old town. This time, i stepped into the Hoi An Roastery. I would label this the Starbucks of Hoi An (there is no Starbucks in Hoi An) because there were many outlets in town and looked like a cozy coffee cafe.

A trip to Vietnam wouldn't be complete without a Ca Phe Sua Da, Vietnamese iced coffee. It was strong for me. Lucky for some milk in it.

Relaxing green hue interior.

Friendship duty done at the post office.

There they go.

After packing my bag and checking out, i wanted to try the Com Ga Xi recommended by my street food tour guide. However, it was closed and i tried the Com Ga Ba Buoi. I was curious how different a chicken rice can be?

Shredded chicken with yellow rice. Not much difference to those in Malaysia.

Packed with locals. See where locals go- should indicate authenticity, yes?

Hoi An has, as cheesy as it sounds, captivated my heart. It was pretty. And i can say it over and over again. I felt like a kid, grinning ear to ear, when i saw the colourful lanterns. The town felt festive despite the crowd. It reminded me of Jonker Walk in the scale of Amsterdam city. A place worth the experience. Oh, did i mention that i was not a fan of Vietnamese cuisine? The food i ate proved otherwise, and i am beginning to enjoy it!

Took out my camera for this pretty shot.

Comments

  1. Nice pictures of this tour and it will encourage many travelers to visit Vietnam and enjoy over here. affordable park and fly deals

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