RM Journey: Satu Petang in Kuala Sepetang, Perak

Kuala Sepetang in Perak is a testament to a place that has nothing much to do yet so much to learn and experience. Irony, yes, but that's the truth, or at least that's what i felt after spending a lovely evening in the charming coastal town. Since i developed an interest to visit less known places, this town shone brightly under my radar. My family came along on this retreat- that's how i call it.

Kuala Sepetang is also known as Port Weld, named after a former Governor, Frederick Weld. Familiar? Perhaps from our Sejarah (History) textbook. This multilingual signboard, something you don't see often today, is a landmark of the town which once had a railway in 1885 linking this port to the Larut tin-mining quarry. It is claimed to be the first railway station in the country.

Prior to our arrival in Kuala Sepetang, we made a few pit stops to break down the otherwise three hour long ride from KL. We exited the North-South Highway in Bidor for breakfast at Pusat Makanan Mee Wah.

It was a busy Friday morning. The Wan Tan Mee and Yong Tau Fu ingredients, separate stalls, were good.

Then we walked down the road to Pun Chun Restaurant for the famous Wu Kok (Yam Pastry).

Whenever passing through Bidor, it is hard to skip ordering these innocent balls. Light, crisp crust, hot yam mantle and flavourful meat at its core.

We continued on the old road to Kampar and soon arrived at the kopitiam near 36 Stalls.

I liked the buns. Pillow soft. Other worthy mentions here included the Chicken Porridge and Kam Yew's Asam Laksa.

Our visit at Matang Museum was brief as it was closed for lunch/prayer. The black-white, kampung-English exterior design of the museum caught my attention. Also known as Kota Ngah Ibrahim, this museum itself is set on a historical site. It was a home, fort, administrative centre, Malay Teaching College, Japanese Army's headquarters and a Malay school.

Upon driving towards Kuala Sepetang, i noticed mangrove trees in the surrounding (some monkeys too) and several charcoal factories. One of the highlights of this Journey is the visit to Charcoal Factory (Mr Chuah). As soon as we opened our car doors, we could smell the fragrant dryness of wood lingering in the air. The factory was free to enter. We were welcomed by a friendly relative of Mr Chuah who warmly brought us on a guided tour and explained to us the process of charcoal making. Have you ever wondered how those black wood used in your barbeque stove or heat source to your favourite fried noodle are made? Why are they black? Are they burnt?

Logs outside the black carbon-coloured factory.

River by the bank to supply fresh logs.

In between his explanation, he shared with us the predicament faced by charcoal factory owners/workers. I believe that the effort made to allow public visits to these factories is beneficial as it is educational, and provide sustainable future.

Kilns for charcoal making. The logs are lined against the inside of a kiln and 'cooked' for days. Experienced workers can know when they are ready just by the smoke. Charcoal products were on sale on site too.

Don't be fooled by my expression. These logs were heavy! In fact, this is not the correct method to lift a log. There was a trick demonstrated by the guide on how to lift a log properly- visit to find out.

Honestly, i was amused by the kilns in the factory that i stood staring at their huge, hemispherical shapes. Needless to say, this visit has opened my eyes, literally and figuratively. If you're not keen on how charcoal is made, hey, the factory does make a perfect spot for Instagram-worthy shots- stain that clothes for an extra rugged look.

Near the charcoal factory was the Restoran Mee Udang Mak Jah, our lunch spot. There was less crowd at the time of our visit but the plenty long tables suggested that this restaurant can get busy. I was surprised to see that orders were placed through an electronic device.

This Kuay Teow Kuah received split feedback. I particularly enjoyed the prawn-rich aroma of its broth while my brother disliked it. It was sourish sweet. As the shop name gives, there were at least five prawns in this normal-sized serving. Unanimously, the prawns were fresh and well cooked.

This picture doesn't show it- the other prawns were hidden underneath the noodles, also fresh and well cooked. The Mee Goreng was a safer choice of noodle meal.

When i Googled for a place to stay in Kuala Sepetang, i was instantly attracted to The Happy 8 Retreat. The artsy, may be uncanny, decor was, in my book, a selling point for an interesting retreat experience with the family. The entrance to the lobby was somewhat peculiar since the building was shared with a restaurant on the first floor. Hence, we had to go through wet floor and passed by ice boxes. Nevertheless, the restaurant and the boutique hotel were separate sections of the building. Check-in was easy with the friendly receptionist who i learned was one of the two people working there.

The eagle figure on the roof as its signature. My mom and brother made the same remark when they saw this- along the lines of it being odd. Pleased to say that when they saw the room, it was not as odd as it seemed.

Only staircase in this hotel. Some steps were steep. Creative incorporation of net on its handrails.

Decorated wall paintings.

We stayed on the third floor so it was always a hike up.

I booked the Eagle Room and the view from its balcony was splendid. In front was a small mangrove island and throughout the day, there were circling eagles and flying egrets. On the right and left (as the picture above) of the balcony, fishing boats and wooden piers could be seen. The room was cozy with an upper deck-like bunk and one toilet. The bed/mattress was hard though.

After settled in, we explored the town. It was a foot-friendly place and the hotel was well located near the centre. Weather was pleasant- cloudy but no rain, thankfully.

One of the wooden piers.

A small petrol station. Seldom see this brand, eh?

View from the bridge over Reba River. *cue Bridge Over Troubled Water* But there was no 'troubled' here, just pretty sight of yellow sheltered fishing boats dotting along the stilt houses.

We continued walking to the Port Weld signboard and i was anticipating the famed curry noodle shop nearby. However, it was closed on the day of visit so we tried another at a kopitiam nearby. Still, it was a tasty creamy, milky curry mee affair. I think curry mee is a thing there as i realized that there were many curry mee stalls around.

This prawn cracker was one of the yummiest i ate there. It was fluffy yet crunchy.

We were back at our balcony, patiently waiting for sunset. It was a relaxing moment.

Since the weather was cooperative, we decided to go for the fireflies ride with Hai Jing Explorer. I last saw fireflies in my secondary school days and remembered that we sat on sampan. Better this time, we went on a proper boat, put on our life jackets and sailed deeper into the mangrove forest. After a twenty minute or so ride, the coxswain slowed the engine and exclaimed 'right, here'. Excitedly, we peered to the starboard side of the boat and soon, at the twinkling trees. There were trees that lit like it was Christmas. My eyes needed time to adjust, in the darkness those gentle tiny creatures flickered.

No fireflies picture here. 

Live the moment.

We returned to the pier about an hour later, delighted to have witnessed this natural light. On the way back, we saw a restaurant with many customers and decided to dine at the Rasa Sayang Restaurant. In a new place, usually a crowd signals that it is good. I concur with the crowd on this.

Upon entering, there were sacks of cockles. 

That's a lot of cockles!

So we had a plate. Chewy, juicy Steamed Blanched Cockles. A simple yet satisfying appetizer. A chili dipping sauce would elevate this dish.

Well-flavoured Salted Egg Mantis Prawn. Unlike other places where there are more flour than meat, here i could taste the mantis prawn.

Salty, sour Teo Chew Style Red Snapper was appetizing. I cannot emphasize further how fresh the dishes were.

Especially this Steamed Prawns. I could taste the sweetness. A simple steam like this was best. Dinner was reasonably priced. Prices were listed in the menu so you can expect what to pay for. This is a recommended place for seafood in Kuala Sepetang.

We were awakened by heavy downpour early the next morning. The otherwise rhythmic, soothing sound of rain was loud and hard hitting on the roof. Water pooled on roads.

So this is how cockles cleaning work. Interesting much?

Catch of the morning.

The happening morning main road. Snack stalls such as fried carrot cake, local kuihs, apam and nasi lemak with locals.

People were friendly and helpful, quick to whip up a conversation. It felt like a town where everybody knows everybody. We had breakfast at Kedai Kopi Hong Loong. The aunty at her stall recommended her choice of curry mee (there were three nearby), across the road. Even to the extent of helping us to order a bowl. It was yum too- my dad claimed it was better than yesterday's. The fish ball noodle from the aunty's stall was decent too.

This kopitiam was popular for its Ho Kar Sai Peng, a blend of coffee and Milo. The owner mentioned tourists from as far as Singapore come for it. The Milo hinted chocolatey sweet texture in the refreshing beverage. 

We packed our belongings and left Kuala Sepetang late morning to Ipoh. This town was a gem- the calm-paced, laidback character was ideal for a retreat. Like the ticks of a clock slowed to a pause, or halted in time entirely, it was then a good reset to the hustle and bustle of city life.

RM Journey is an extension to the Journey series of this blog that focuses on Malaysia. RM stands for Rewriting Malaysia- nothing political, purely travel and food content. Coincidentally, it is the currency used in this beloved country. Some are new adventures, some are rewritten to relive nostalgic moments. Drop me a message to visit your hometown. I enjoy hidden gems!