My Myanmar Journey: Rangoon is Yangon
On my way home from the airport, my Grab driver asked me where i went. I told him Myanmar and this quickly piqued his curiousity. He mentioned that he seldom hear of people traveling to Myanmar, what more for leisure, and continued with a few more questions about the country i now know the answers to. Do you know that Myanmar is the second largest country by land in Southeast Asia? Driven by the agriculture industry, the current country population is 1.7 times that of Malaysia according to World Population Review 2019. I gladly replied him while replaying the week-long travel i just returned from.
Despite the many temple visits (at least one pagoda/stupa/temple everyday in our itinerary), this travel was more cultural to me than it was spiritual. And i thoroughly enjoyed the food! I even mentioned it to my Grab driver who didn't sound convinced. Mon ethnic cuisine, Shan state inspired delicacies, Chinese and Indian mixed dishes occupy the menu beside local food fares. Vegetarian meals were aplenty too. I read from blogs that food tend to be oily but it was tolerable for me. I also heard of food hygiene cases; however, i was selective of the places dined in and came home alright.
Myanmar was on my travel list for quite some time and i didn't want to go there solo (matter of preference). So when my friend agreed to go on a travel together, this country popped up, first in line for me. It wasn't in my friend's travel list (then) but he joined anyway and i believe we had a wonderful time in the country previously known as Burma.
Like always, selecting the dates was a headache. Factoring in flight prices and work/life schedule, we finally locked in our one week duration and began preparation for the adventure in under two weeks. The next action was to apply for a visa. Do check if you require it prior to your arrival. The tourist e-visa was 50 USD for Malaysians. I got my approval letter within one day. Print it as it will be needed for show at Malaysia airport check and Myanmar point of entry immigration counter. For our case, Yangon International Airport.
Immigration check was smooth and soon, we were at the arrival hall. The airport was rather small. We compared exchange rates and found the best offer at a stall far right of the exit. It was 1532 kyat (MMK) for 1 USD. We were almost millionaires with stacks of cash at hand. Or owned books of coupons like at a fair. The common note was 5000 kyat. Then, we searched for the bus stop outside the airport and waited for the Omni Red bus. Immediately, we felt the humid heat. One bus came and we boarded. The bus was well air-conditioned.
I noticed that we were getting further from our destination stop. The route was a loop and we were on the Pyay Road/anticlockwise direction instead. We should be on the Kabar Aye Pagoda Road or clockwise-ward bus. I didn't mind the bus ride actually because i got to glimpse part of the city and the places we would go, but we were caught in heavy morning traffic. There were many cars on the road.
We disembarked at Myanmar Plaza stop and crossed the road to the edge of Inya Lake. Apparently, it was a popular lakeside park for romantic couples but i felt it uneventful. We continued walking until we arrived at a high gate with an accompanying guard house.
We entered Myanmar Plaza later to cool off and shopped at the local supermarket. There were Myanmar durians but i didn't manage to try any in this journey. We headed to the food court for lunch. Then, we looked for Hard Rock Cafe but were told that it was no longer there.
We took the correct bus this time and stopped where we wanted to. The walk towards our hotel was along a somewhat buzzing street market. The hotel sat at the quieter end of the busy road. Artsy, we booked a night in the Merchant Art Hotel. Our windowless room was cozy with a low bed. Facilities were clean and basic. I recommend this if staying near the Pagoda is your intention.
After a quick rest, we left on foot, braving strong gust of wind, to the People's Park and Culture Valley. The Valley was more of a shopping centre, an underwhelming place of potential. We took shelter from drizzle and snacked on fries before leaving.
The Shwedagon Pagoda, our highlight of the day, was undoubtedly an icon of the city and country. It was one of the few things i knew in Myanmar then. There were four entrances to the Pagoda. We stepped in through the West Entrance after several stairways and escalators. A water bottle and a packet of wet wipes were included in the admission fee. No footwear and socks were allowed on so remember to bring a bag to carry them with you. Dress appropriately- no shorts, no sleeveless.
We had our first dinner at Jana Mon Ethnic Cuisine near our hotel. We enjoyed the unique flavours and easy access from our hotel that we had lunch there the very next day. Waitresses were friendly with passable English.
The next morning, we hopped in the same bus to Sule Pagoda. Located on a roundabout like a heart of downtown Yangon with vehicles in circulation, this Pagoda was also a significant site for many happenings such as rallying points for the 8888 Uprising and Saffron Revolution. We did not enter the Pagoda but climbed an overhead pedestrian bridge for a view.
From there, we looked for 999 Shan Noodle Shop in the lanes. Recommended by my brother and several other blogs, i was hungry when we arrived at the clean, narrow lot. The menu had a wide variety of Shan noodle dishes so i picked the marked favourite noodle option along with a plate of fried tofu.
After breakfast, we moved on foot to explore and admire the nearby well-preserved heritage buildings.
Next, we visited St Mary's Cathedral. The front facade was pretty and i was impressed by the colorful interior of its wall/ceiling and stained glasses.
Before returning to the hotel to check out, we collected our train tickets from Pegu Travel office. Then, we hailed a Grab taxi on the app. Grab was available in Yangon (and more handy in Mandalay later).
The Yangon Central Railway Station was hectic with locals either on intracity or intercity trains. There was no security check, no proper signage and we had to reconfirm our platform number at a booth for the correct train to board on. As soon as we neared the platform, local kids swarmed around us and asked to see our tickets. We declined to show and headed to our platform unassisted. They followed and insisted for us to show them our tickets. They claimed they could assist us into the right coach. "Sleeper?" they asked. I nodded and they pointed to the end of the train/platform.
We approached a boy (who looked like in the teens) in white uniform (who looked like an attendant for the train company). He directed us to our coach and upon entering, we were taken aback by its condition. It was different than the pictures shown on the train booking website. It was a 4-person coach with two top beds and two pull-out chair/beds below. We shared with a couple from Spain. As i anticipated, there was no air-conditioning. There was a small fan on the ceiling and window (blinds) for ventilation. It reminded me of my overnight train experience in Sri Lanka. Only this time, a sleeper coach and an ensuite toilet.
After settled in and placed our meal orders (not included in the train fee), an earlier local kid reappeared in our coach and tried to sell us drinks. "Water?" We shook our heads. "Coke?" Again, we shook our heads. Persistently, she repeated. "No. We have", i replied. Not wanting to give up, she tried with "beer?". I looked at her, stupefied, and said no. "Crazy," she exasperated. It was an amusing exchange. Her response and her taking-no-for-answer attitude. Not long after, the train blast its horn and our 20-hour countdown ticked.
Yes, 20 hours! Why did we take the train? I wanted to live the Myanmar Railway experience.
I realized that this experience engaged with our five core senses. It was loud at most times, from the clanking of metals and horn alarms to chatters of outsiders or music played at stations. My friend tried to catch a rhythm. It reminded me of August Rush movie but this sound was no orchestra symphony. Along the ride, it was dusty, smoky and occasionally, fresh green air, matching with its change of scenery. Farm stays to hilly greenery to barren dry land, rubbish littered on the side of roads, sunset and sunrise, people working the fields and animals roaming the land. The window was like a screen showing life; an escape from the sedentary inside.
The ride was bumpy and tossing. I brought a book but i was in no mood to read. Still, we managed to steal a few hours of sleep. The rocking did feel like being in a swaying crib. As for taste, the meals we had onboard were pleasant. Not sure if we were just hungry doing nothing but we emptied our meal boxes.
It was perhaps due to the long ride that i found joy in the little things around me. They were my entertainment. May be an inspiration for a new writing masterpiece or am i being outright ambitious? We disconnected temporarily with our phones and lived in simplicity with the surrounding. Truly a memorable experience. Nevertheless, once was enough. Will you consider this 20-hour trade in your life?
The next station sign read Bagan.
Despite the many temple visits (at least one pagoda/stupa/temple everyday in our itinerary), this travel was more cultural to me than it was spiritual. And i thoroughly enjoyed the food! I even mentioned it to my Grab driver who didn't sound convinced. Mon ethnic cuisine, Shan state inspired delicacies, Chinese and Indian mixed dishes occupy the menu beside local food fares. Vegetarian meals were aplenty too. I read from blogs that food tend to be oily but it was tolerable for me. I also heard of food hygiene cases; however, i was selective of the places dined in and came home alright.
With the mother of all golden pagodas in Yangon.
Myanmar was on my travel list for quite some time and i didn't want to go there solo (matter of preference). So when my friend agreed to go on a travel together, this country popped up, first in line for me. It wasn't in my friend's travel list (then) but he joined anyway and i believe we had a wonderful time in the country previously known as Burma.
Like always, selecting the dates was a headache. Factoring in flight prices and work/life schedule, we finally locked in our one week duration and began preparation for the adventure in under two weeks. The next action was to apply for a visa. Do check if you require it prior to your arrival. The tourist e-visa was 50 USD for Malaysians. I got my approval letter within one day. Print it as it will be needed for show at Malaysia airport check and Myanmar point of entry immigration counter. For our case, Yangon International Airport.
Fun fact: the capital city of Myanmar today is not Yangon. It is Nay Pyi Taw.
Immigration check was smooth and soon, we were at the arrival hall. The airport was rather small. We compared exchange rates and found the best offer at a stall far right of the exit. It was 1532 kyat (MMK) for 1 USD. We were almost millionaires with stacks of cash at hand. Or owned books of coupons like at a fair. The common note was 5000 kyat. Then, we searched for the bus stop outside the airport and waited for the Omni Red bus. Immediately, we felt the humid heat. One bus came and we boarded. The bus was well air-conditioned.
I noticed that we were getting further from our destination stop. The route was a loop and we were on the Pyay Road/anticlockwise direction instead. We should be on the Kabar Aye Pagoda Road or clockwise-ward bus. I didn't mind the bus ride actually because i got to glimpse part of the city and the places we would go, but we were caught in heavy morning traffic. There were many cars on the road.
View of the lake. One of the houses on the far left was one we couldn't enter.
At the gate of Aung San Suu Kyi's house arrest. This was a photo-stop as no other details were available.
We entered Myanmar Plaza later to cool off and shopped at the local supermarket. There were Myanmar durians but i didn't manage to try any in this journey. We headed to the food court for lunch. Then, we looked for Hard Rock Cafe but were told that it was no longer there.
We took the correct bus this time and stopped where we wanted to. The walk towards our hotel was along a somewhat buzzing street market. The hotel sat at the quieter end of the busy road. Artsy, we booked a night in the Merchant Art Hotel. Our windowless room was cozy with a low bed. Facilities were clean and basic. I recommend this if staying near the Pagoda is your intention.
An artwork dominated a wall in our room.
Colourful building across from our hotel. I couldn't avoid taking a picture of it.
The rooftop terrace overlooking the golden Pagoda was a plus point.
We had our welcoming juices at night with the lit Pagoda in the background.
The Shwedagon Pagoda, our highlight of the day, was undoubtedly an icon of the city and country. It was one of the few things i knew in Myanmar then. There were four entrances to the Pagoda. We stepped in through the West Entrance after several stairways and escalators. A water bottle and a packet of wet wipes were included in the admission fee. No footwear and socks were allowed on so remember to bring a bag to carry them with you. Dress appropriately- no shorts, no sleeveless.
Burmese lion (Chinthe) statues at the West Entrance.
Corridor before the climb.
The moment i laid my eyes on the Pagoda, i was awestruck. Splendour in gold and beyond what i had seen.
The surrounding halls and temples were equally beautiful.
Panoramic shot.
Ladies sweeping the floor around the Pagoda like a moving hand of a clock on its face. Supervised by a senior (i presumed) at the front, it was oddly fascinating to watch.
Shwedagon, Reliquary of the Four, as it contained the relics (hairs, staff, water filter and nether-robe) of the four Buddhas who had attained Enlightenment. The diamond orb at the top has 1800 carats in total!
The Pagoda stood at 99m tall since 1774. And this lone tall tree also caught our attention.
Locals sat before the Pagoda. In eight directions on the platform of the Pagoda, there were planetary posts (one seen in this picture) where pilgrims may seek blessings to their wishes.
I read that the best time to visit is around 4.30pm and i couldn't agree more- we got to enjoy the Pagoda in various lighting. This gave us time to explore its surrounding and to watch prayers being performed with the shimmering glow of the Pagoda in daylight.
Lights came on as the sun began to set.
Glistening golden lights during dark.
Young monks chanting.
We circled five times (if i remembered correctly) since we entered, patiently waited for the night scene.
Mesmerising.
A minority local group dinner spread of country style chicken (yum with a hint of spices), homemade soup (an unfamiliar blend of vegetables that definitely was unique on the palate), squid salad (tantalizingly appetizing) and fragrant coconut rice.
Satisfying lunch of wild mangosteen with pork (bits of mangosteen in the tasty gravy mix) and roselle leaf prawns (fresh but a tad too sour) with white rice. Pardon the Myanmar Times reference on the table. You can see a review by it of this eatery in the shop.
The next morning, we hopped in the same bus to Sule Pagoda. Located on a roundabout like a heart of downtown Yangon with vehicles in circulation, this Pagoda was also a significant site for many happenings such as rallying points for the 8888 Uprising and Saffron Revolution. We did not enter the Pagoda but climbed an overhead pedestrian bridge for a view.
On the bridge with Sule Pagoda in sight.
A mosque near the Pagoda.
From there, we looked for 999 Shan Noodle Shop in the lanes. Recommended by my brother and several other blogs, i was hungry when we arrived at the clean, narrow lot. The menu had a wide variety of Shan noodle dishes so i picked the marked favourite noodle option along with a plate of fried tofu.
Not too difficult to spot this with its boards.
I had the Shan noodle soup thin noodles. The soup was mild and light.
It was this unassuming Fried Tofu that i raved. It was hot and crispy on the outside, thin and soft on the inside. At first, i thought it would be like any tofu i had in Malaysia made from soy but upon researching on it, i learn that it is made of flour ground from yellow split peas and the Burmese version of chickpea flour (besan flour). It is a popular Shan snack.
After breakfast, we moved on foot to explore and admire the nearby well-preserved heritage buildings.
Along the alley near the breakfast spot.
The Independence Monument within the Maha Bandula Park.
Yangon City Hall in the vicinity.
Red bricked clock tower of the High Court Building.
Random building with discoloured exterior exuded an uncanny vibe.
The fancy Strand Hotel lobby we dropped in just to say Hi. The colonial design was eye candy. Perhaps one day, if i ever return to Yangon, i will splurge on a night or dine here.
We walked until the Botataung Pagoda and then turned back towards the city.
The front symmetry.
High arch, effective colour contrast.
The Yangon Central Railway Station was hectic with locals either on intracity or intercity trains. There was no security check, no proper signage and we had to reconfirm our platform number at a booth for the correct train to board on. As soon as we neared the platform, local kids swarmed around us and asked to see our tickets. We declined to show and headed to our platform unassisted. They followed and insisted for us to show them our tickets. They claimed they could assist us into the right coach. "Sleeper?" they asked. I nodded and they pointed to the end of the train/platform.
A normal day at the train station.
Considered an 'upper class' passenger but do come in.
Welcome?
To be honest, the toilet was better than i imagined. Despite leaving a trail with your excretions on the track, it was clean, no public toilet stench, had functioning bidet and water for use.
After settled in and placed our meal orders (not included in the train fee), an earlier local kid reappeared in our coach and tried to sell us drinks. "Water?" We shook our heads. "Coke?" Again, we shook our heads. Persistently, she repeated. "No. We have", i replied. Not wanting to give up, she tried with "beer?". I looked at her, stupefied, and said no. "Crazy," she exasperated. It was an amusing exchange. Her response and her taking-no-for-answer attitude. Not long after, the train blast its horn and our 20-hour countdown ticked.
Yes, 20 hours! Why did we take the train? I wanted to live the Myanmar Railway experience.
Whatcha lookin' at?
I realized that this experience engaged with our five core senses. It was loud at most times, from the clanking of metals and horn alarms to chatters of outsiders or music played at stations. My friend tried to catch a rhythm. It reminded me of August Rush movie but this sound was no orchestra symphony. Along the ride, it was dusty, smoky and occasionally, fresh green air, matching with its change of scenery. Farm stays to hilly greenery to barren dry land, rubbish littered on the side of roads, sunset and sunrise, people working the fields and animals roaming the land. The window was like a screen showing life; an escape from the sedentary inside.
Local kids waving at us. Some adults too, but mostly kids.
Green countryside. Like this shot.
Fields against mountainous background.
Stations along the way. Some looked just slightly bigger than a hut.
Dry and hot, especially when the train halted in the middle of nowhere.
Prepared from the Restaurant Coach that looked like a school canteen table setting. We had to hold our boxes down so it wont spill over.
It was perhaps due to the long ride that i found joy in the little things around me. They were my entertainment. May be an inspiration for a new writing masterpiece or am i being outright ambitious? We disconnected temporarily with our phones and lived in simplicity with the surrounding. Truly a memorable experience. Nevertheless, once was enough. Will you consider this 20-hour trade in your life?
Traveling at times 30 km/h, usually slower, but appreciating the unhurried pace of this journey.
The next station sign read Bagan.
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