My Sri Lanka Journey: Colombo Forte

I slept intermittently on the train and arrived Colombo Fort Station just after sunrise, when the city woke up and slowly came alive. Stalls began to open, school children headed for classes, employees on their way to work. I walked to the Manning Market next door only to realize it was a market selling mostly fruits and vegetables. I thought i could find textile and souvenir to bring home but no; so visit if you are looking for ingredients to cook or fresh fruits to eat, or if you have not visited a market. Then, i saw direction to the Floating Market but i was told later by another fellow traveler that stalls were by the bank and a buyer used a boat to get to them instead of both buyers and sellers on water. I decided to skip this.

Hand phone.

Switching directions, i walked towards Colombo Fort but soon, i was approached by a local man who said it was a lucky day for me because there was a celebration in town and goods like tea and gemstone were on special offer. I told him i didn't want to buy any of them (tea, yes, but i wasn't going to tell a stranger). He insisted that no purchase would be fine and hailed a tuk tuk for me. Now that i recall this experience, i could be more than brave (like dumb?) to get onto that tuk tuk. But in a twisted chain of events, the gemstone/tea store is located across the Hostel Inn Colombo 7, which was my stay for my last night. I hastily visited the gemstone/tea store and despite their insistence to buy, i left and checked in at my hostel. This hostel is well located- a short distance to the bus station and more to the Kollupitiya suburb and railway station. However, food was not easily found nearby. The two men manning this place were friendly and helpful. I sought their advice on how and where to go to, and i needed to ask what celebration was in town. He checked and there was none! Oh well, at least i got to check in early and changed my itinerary between the day and the next.

I visited the Gangaramaya Temple (300 LKR). Frankly, this Temple catered more to religious practitioners than visitors. The main building was beautiful but other areas were busy with prayers performing their ritual. There were many Buddha statues too. It is common for temples to charge an entrance fee in Sri Lanka; it's official. So, there isn't any point in arguing or requesting an explanation. If you're not going to pay, don't enter. Here, i witnessed a foreign couple trying to explain to the keeper about other temples around the world not charging a fee. In the end, they left. Not long after, i exited the Temple and crossed the road to an extension/floating temple (Sima Malaka) on the Lake.

Inside the main building.

Tip: With an entrance ticket, it included both temples.

On the Lake.

Peaceful.

The Beira Lake had a bridge that reached an island. The island had a romantic vibe and it was no wonder while i strolled around the island, i was surrounded by many 'love birds' on benches under the trees, not bothered by the passing swans. A dating spot, perhaps?

Still a developing city, as seen from the Lake.

Another ideal dating spot, i felt, was the Viharamahadevi Park, which i went next. Opposite the Colombo Municipal Council, this Park was pretty. It had functioning water fountains, playgrounds and a dedicated cycling track. Although closed, it was interesting to see that there was an aquarium and a canopy bridge in the park. Nearby the Park is the Memorial Park, Colombo Public Library and the National Museum.

It's not easy to miss this across the Park.

Interesting post office in Cinnamon Gardens.

I continued walking towards Kollupitiya town and had lunch at Burger King in Liberty Plaza. Pleasantly, there were localized menu and i had the Rice and Curry. Among the fast food chains, Burger King was the easiest to locate and i found the most of them.

I made my way to the Kollupitiya Railway Station and left for Mount Lavinia (10 LKR). Four stations after, i alighted, turned left from the station and walked to the Mount Lavinia Hotel- a hotel that once used to be a mansion.

Scenic ride on the train.

The Mount Lavinia Station. Most stations looked like this.

View of the beach from the Hotel. Rough sea.

The Hotel's beach huts. The red flag was up. 

I wanted to stay for sunset but observing the cloudy sky, i left Mount Lavinia almost 5pm.

I stopped by this Carnival Ice Cream in Kollupitiya town for a cool Treasure Island Float Drink. The ambiance was definitely nice but the drink was average.

Further down the road was the Sri Lanka Tea Board Shop where i bought my tea. There was a wide selection of tea and i decided based on what i had during my journey (which wasn't a lot) and the box. I stopped by Dinemore for a quick dinner before heading back to at my hostel.

The next morning, i took the bus to Colombo Fort (13 LKR) and returned to Pettah. This time, i walked through the streets of Pettah, which were rows of shops selling all sorts of things and it reminded me of the Petaling Street in KL.   

Locals flooding the streets.

A friendly man approached me and asked where i was going. I told him that i'm going to the Red Mosque. He told me it was in front, although i knew since i had the map. He continued to follow me. I said, "it's ok. I can go there myself". Naturally, in a crowded area, my hands go into the pocket. So he saw and said, "don't worry. Don't need to put your hands there". I was speechless, and i repeated that i could find my own way there. I quickened my steps and he said, "don't walk to fast". I walked even faster, crossed the road and left him behind. Just there, i found the Red Mosque, known as the Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque. The red and white design definitely stood out from the streets' shops and as a mosque.

A face of the mosque.

I passed by Colombo Fort Railway Station (this station seemed to be my focal point)...

... and on my list of things to try, on this last day, was the Wood Apple Juice (50 LKR). I bought from a fruit juice stand across the station and had no idea what it was. But this beverage was delicious- crushed/blended wood apple and sweetened with milk and sugar. Definitely a must try; if only i bought back.

Time for some colonial-style building eye feast around Fort.

Lloyd's Building.

The clock tower.

Cargills Ceylon PLC next to HSBC. Imagine Stadhuys Building in Melaka.

Another colonial (may be some goth-feel too) building.

The guarded house.

Saving the best meal for last, i visited the Old Dutch Hospital for lunch, particularly the Ministry of Crab. I didn't make a reservation. There was a notice written about possibility of not having a crab due to bad weather if no reservation is made. I crossed my fingers and asked the waiter; he came back to me and said there was a small one for me. When in Sri Lanka, eat Sri Lankan crab.

Pleasant service and great ambiance. This eatery is listed in the Top 50 restaurants in the world.

I had the famous Garlic Chili Crab. The crab was fresh and sweet; the meat was cooked perfectly that it detached from its shell easily for a whole, yummy bite. Japanese style, Lankan cuisine, it was no wonder this place is highly rated. Splurge it was.

I walked to the Galle Face Green and i was disappointed that it wasn't as green as i'd pictured. There were stalls selling snacks and drinks, and it got livelier later. I got to see the Indian Ocean again before walking back to my hostel and to pack for home.

Just when i thought my adventure in Sri Lanka had drawn its curtains, it hadn't- i had a 2-hour tuk tuk ride to the airport (which normally takes slightly less than an hour). I hopped into a tuk tuk and after some distance, he asked if i had a map. He didn't know the way. I hadn't, and i questioned myself if i should change tuk tuk. I didn't, because i was confident i'd recognize the road (if he uses the same road as when i arrived). I let him drive and he squeezed between vehicles with tireless honking. It was rush hour!

My driver spoke minimal English but i understood when he said he needed to fill up his tank. We stopped by a station, filled up the tank and pumped air in tires. I noticed the front tire did not stabilize- a sign something's not right. He knew too. We rode further along the road. There was a fatal accident; body covered in sheet. It was an open air tuk tuk! I moved to the other side, although not a lot of difference, and saw but not see. I saw my driver flinched.

There was a tire workshop and we stopped to change tire. My driver asked if i had 100 LKR to tip the helper. I gave, and this time, i was sure we could make our way to the airport undisturbed. I still had time but i didn't want to tell the driver. When we reached the airport road, he stopped and asked if it was this. I said no and told him to continue ahead. He stopped further down again, and i repeated no. Then, he asked another tuk tuk driver who showed him the way and as i expected, tuk tuk was not allowed into the airport so i stopped outside and walked in. I paid my fare based on the meter. There was a change of 10 LKR which i told him to keep. Then, he offered to return the 100 LKR which we tipped the tire-change helper. Although he spoke little English, i felt he was a genuinely kind local man making an honest living, so i refused the 100 LKR and told him to take it. Happily, we went our separate ways.

What a ride!

My Sri Lanka journey is definitely unlike my other travels. Exotic, certainly but i've learned a lot too- of life, of perspectives in life, and it makes me rethink and reevaluate what i have done and what i will do. Instead of rushing through my itinerary, i took it slow but efficient. As i reflect on my days in what-used-to-also-be-known-as Serendib, yes i could have done more or switch things up, but i'm glad i kept it this way. Things will work out, and they will catch up on you without you even realizing. And i was within budget.

My fellow traveler said his life's goal is to never grow up. I'd say, "never lose that child in you".

While i can, while i'm still young, i will travel. And i will not stop.

Obata stutiyi, Sri Lanka!

My Sri Lanka Journey: Candy Kandy and Dambulla Flava
My Sri Lanka Journey: Rewind
My Sri Lanka Journey: Colombo Forte